Apr 23, 2024 6 min read

Accommodation and Dinner at Sicilians' Home

Let me take you on a little journey through Sicily—a tale that starts with the simple choice of a place to stay but quickly turns into an unexpected adventure into local traditions, flavors, and heartfelt encounters.

Host's house Agriturismo Capuano, Sicily
Host's house Agriturismo Capuano, Sicily

When we chose the accommodation for the end of the day, we had no way of knowing exactly where we would wander. And what we booked fit wonderfully with the spirit of the second half of the day.

Since we had been walking through remote areas, the position of the farmhouse perfectly fits the natural setting, being alone on a hill, with a narrow, paved road that takes you through the vast fresh green of spring to the parking lot in front of the house.

We get out of the car and are greeted by gusts of wind that slash our cheeks like a sharp razor. Only that we do not bleed, otherwise the sensation is the same.

The road to the guesthouse in Sicily
The road to the guesthouse

Also, the temperature is a dry cold, with many degrees below those left behind on the beaches.

But the area is so beautiful that the whims of the weather cannot impinge upon the joy of being here.

And once invited inside, we are enveloped by the warmth emitted by the fireplace where wood crackles. Close your eyes and imagine something like this! Harsh weather and a wood fire in Sicily…

The living room
The living room

The host was waiting for us with homemade cake and a glass of red wine. We relaxed immediately, the warm welcome and rustic atmosphere, tinted with quality wine, leaving us sprawled for a while on the comfortable armchairs and sofa in the living room.

We reluctantly returned to an upright position, but we had to unload our stuff and transfer it from the trunk to the room that had been prepared for us. And which was in another building. Alongside three other similar rooms and an apartment.

The interior of the room was not remarkable in size, but it was sufficient for our needs. That is, a wardrobe, a comfortable bed with clean and perfectly made linens, two nightstands for the accessories I had in my pocket or Liga in her purse.

Accommodation room in Sicily
The room

On the walls, there were paintings with reproductions by artists who were either beginners or ranked lower in the genre's top charts, but which created a pleasant ambiance in the warm chromatic tones of the place where we were to spend the night.

The bathroom was all white, except for the floor tiles, and quite cramped, but you would forget this feature if you looked above the sink. There, instead of the expected mirror, was a window that allowed you to enjoy the outside view.

Sicilian landscape
Sicilian landscape

After we took possession of the room, I took the necessary photos for the article documentation and took out what we needed from our suitcases, then we returned to the living room—or reception room—where we were expected for dinner.

Although we had only booked accommodation with breakfast, during the wine and cake tasting we were asked if we wanted to join our hosts for the last meal of the day.

Although I hoped it would also be their pleasure to have dinner with us and to honor us in this, I was inspired to ask how much our agreement would cost. At the price of 20 euros and a menu consisting of local products, some of which were being prepared at the time of questioning, we clearly responded affirmatively.

Appetizer for dinner
Appetizer for dinner

From the unique desire to take part in an authentic Sicilian family dinner and the temptation to taste the local dishes.

And our choice fully deserves the highest marks!

The chef—who was the head of the family!—simply made us lick our fingers! But he also stuffed our stomachs!

To start, we had a choice of various spirits to whet our appetite, and we opted for a local brandy, over Fernet, Limoncello (chosen by Liga), or liqueur.

The sicilian bar
The sicilian bar

Then various cheeses, meats, and fried eggs arrived on the table, with the main course consisting of assorted grilled or egg-battered vegetables: zucchini, eggplants, mushrooms, onions, or a long, slender green vegetable whose name escapes me as I salivate while writing.

Vegetables for dinner
Vegetables for dinner

This was accompanied by a bakery product made from whole wheat flour mixed with egg and cheese, baked and topped with a layer of tomato sauce.

The third course consists of authentic homemade pasta, made with special flour from wheat grown and ground in a stone mill by the host himself.

At the end, new rounds of various cakes were served, alongside small plates of jams, or glasses of red wine – as much as you can handle! – all enjoyed with stories and in a relaxed atmosphere, a gathering of Latin kin amidst the pleasant smell of logs burning in the fireplace. It's cold here in the mountains!

various sicilian cakes
various cakes

These Sicilians are wonderful!

When I mentioned "Sicilian family dinner," I was referring to Toto and his wife, aged 67 and 66, joined (since it's Saturday evening) by the lady's sister, a retired math teacher.

The hosts have two daughters, and at each wedding, Toto appears alongside the brides in a convertible car, just like the infamous "capo di tutti capi" so well-known in local ballads.

During siesta, a 4-year-old granddaughter from Turin calls. I remain fascinated by the children's discussions in Italian, the most beautiful language spoken by children, in my humble opinion.

The night before, at our accommodation in Palermo, I heard a grandmother scolding two grandchildren. I was moved by the little ones' apologies. Although I didn’t understand their defenses, I would have forgiven them on the spot just for the passion in their argumentation.

Throughout the indictment, the grandmother had lost her composure, and I hope the little ones escaped unpunished.

I wholeheartedly declare that there is no argument more beautiful and tempestuous than one conducted in Italian!

A minor disagreement also started by our hosts who could not clearly keep track of the years since the opening of the first of their two restaurants owned in Gangi until recently: 48 or 50.

The Charming Sadness of a Sicilian Village
Through the splendid landscape - rolling towards the mountains - we make our way to Gangi, one of the architectural gems of the island.

I ended the misunderstanding by raising a glass of red wine.

Currently, the family is engaged in agriculture, cultivating 10 hectares with non-genetically modified wheat.

They produce 3 types of flour. I did not know that they use one type for bread, a different one for pastries, and the third for everything else.

We said goodbye to Toto's dishes the next morning, after eating.

Sicilians start the day with some sweet pastries so that breakfast follows suit.

I was able to appreciate the host's culinary talent once again. Couldn't he cook every meal we'll have in Sicily? It wouldn't be too much effort for him, as there are only a few days left in our stay.

We had some wonderful moments at Agriturismo Capuano!

From the delightful natural setting where the guesthouse is located to the kindness of the hosts and from the taste of the products to the bilingual chat from which I didn't understand everything (does it really matter?).

Here, I felt and breathed tradition, authenticity! I can't say that I felt Sicilian, but I can write that I truly met Sicilians.

Thank you for reading and make sure to subscribe. We're constantly exploring new destinations and share our stories, tips, and the beauty we discover along the way.

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