Backpacking Through Peru

This storytelling travel guide follows the arc of an adventure seeker’s trek through Peru: trekking ancient Inca trails in the highlands, unwinding on sun-soaked beaches, immersing in rich Quechua culture, and savoring world-renowned Peruvian cuisine.

Along the way, we’ll weave in practical tips on visas, safety, transport, timing, and budgeting. Pack your bag and let’s dive into an unforgettable Peruvian odyssey.

Trekking the Andes: High-Altitude Hiking Adventures

Today is the final push of the four-day Inca Trail – a trek that has tested my legs and lungs across mountain passes over 4,200 meters. Reaching the Sun Gate at daybreak, the mist parts to reveal Machu Picchu, the fabled Inca citadel perched among jade peaks. In that golden moment, the aches of the trail disappear, replaced by awe and a flood of accomplishment. This is the pinnacle (literally) of Peru’s hiking adventures, but it’s far from the only one.

The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is Peru’s most iconic hike. Securing a spot requires planning, as permits are capped at 500 people per day (including guides and porters), meaning only about 200 trekkers can start the trail each day incatrailreservations.com.

The trail is closed each February for maintenance incatrailreservations.com, so you’ll need to avoid that month. Most backpackers book with a licensed tour operator months in advance to ensure a permit. The classic route spans 4 days, winding through cloud forests and ancient stone steps, culminating at Machu Picchu’s Sun Gate at sunrise.

For those who miss out on permits or seek alternative treks, options abound – the Salkantay Trek offers a high-altitude route skirting snowy Mount Salkantay, and the Lares Trek takes you through remote villages where Quechua life carries on much as it has for centuries. These alternate treks still end with a visit to Machu Picchu (often via train from the town of Aguas Calientes) and can be booked more last-minute than the Inca Trail.

Beyond Cusco and the Sacred Valley, Peru’s Cordillera ranges call out to serious hikers. In the north, the Cordillera Blanca around Huaraz boasts some of the most spectacular alpine trekking on the continent.

Here, you can challenge yourself on the Santa Cruz Trek, a 4-day journey through turquoise glacial lakes and towering peaks, or even the intense Huayhuash Circuit, an 8-10 day expedition famed for its dramatic mountain vistas (the setting of “Touching the Void”). Day hikes are plentiful too – a personal favorite is Laguna 69, where after a steep climb you’re rewarded with an electric-blue alpine lake at 4,600m, framed by ice-clad summits.

Up here the air is thin; every breath and step reminds you that altitude sickness is a real concern above 2,500 m elevation ​smartraveller.gov.au. Smart travelers schedule rest days to acclimatize (Cusco itself sits at ~3,400 m) and combat symptoms by hydrating, avoiding alcohol, and sipping coca leaf tea – a traditional remedy that I found surprisingly effective as I sipped it on a train toward the Andes.

Heading south, the city of Arequipa – nicknamed the “White City” for its pearl-hued colonial buildings – is the gateway to Colca Canyon. Twice as deep as the Grand Canyon, Colca is one of the world’s deepest canyons southamericabackpacker.com.

I set out at dawn from the rim, hiking down dusty switchbacks into the canyon’s heart, where tiny hamlets with terraced fields cling to the slopes. The effort is rewarded by a sunrise spectacle of giant Andean condors swooping on thermal drafts above (their 3-meter wingspans casting shadows on the canyon walls).

Whether you go on a guided 2-3 day trek or catch a budget-friendly day bus tour to the viewpoints, Colca Canyon is a must-see for adventure lovers. Standing at Cruz del Condor lookout, I felt minuscule watching the graceful condors glide – nature’s reminder of how grand these landscapes truly are.

Tips for Hiking in Peru’s Highlands

• Acclimatization is Key: Spend at least a couple of days in a high-altitude city (like Cusco or Huaraz) before intense hikes. Altitude sickness can affect anyone – consult your doctor about preventive medication if you plan very high ascents, and ensure your travel insurance covers high-altitude trekking​smartraveller.gov.au.
• Gear and Guides: Trails like the Inca Trail require a guide by law, so book through reputable agencies. Many treks provide gear like tents, but bring a warm sleeping bag for sub-zero Andean nights. Hiking boots, layers, and rain protection (especially December–March) are essential.
• Permits and Timing: Plan Machu Picchu treks for the dry season (roughly May to September) when trails are less muddy. Remember the Inca Trail is closed in February incatrailreservations.com. If visiting in the rainy season, alternatives like Salkantay might still run (just expect rain).
• Leave No Trace: Peru’s trails are natural treasures. Pack out all trash, respect trail regulations, and don’t remove any artifacts. On the Inca Trail, use designated campsites and toilets to help preserve the route as authorities intended when they limited overuse in 2002 ​incatrailreservations.com.

Beach Escapes and Surf Town Vibes

After weeks of mountain switchbacks and thin air, nothing soothes the trail-weary soul like Peru’s coastal retreats. I traded my hiking boots for flip-flops and headed north to Máncora, a once-sleepy fishing village turned backpacker beach haven on the Pacific.

Here, the vibe is utterly laid-back: golden sands, consistent surf, and a parade of tiki bars and thatch-roofed hostels lining the shore. By day, travelers sprawl on the beach or take surf lessons on the gentle waves; by night, Máncora earns its reputation as Peru’s “legendary party beach”​.

I remember one evening joining new friends at a bonfire by the hostel bar, the ocean breeze carrying reggae music and laughter long past midnight. It felt like a world away from the Andes. (Fun fact: this sunny town reportedly enjoys more clear days than Arizona ​thebrokebackpacker.com, making it a year-round beach escape as rain is scarce in Peru’s northern coast.)

Heading down the coast, other beach gems await. Near the city of Trujillo lies Huanchaco, a chilled-out beach town famous for its long surf breaks and rich history. Locals still launch reed boats called caballitos de totora – a fishing tradition dating back to pre-Inca times – riding waves in what some call the birthplace of surfing.

Huanchaco also lays claim as the birthplace of Peru’s national dish, ceviche​, and you’ll find plenty of beachfront cevicherías serving ultra-fresh seafood. The town’s vibe is bohemian; I spent an extra week here unwinding, taking sunrise yoga at a surf hostel and day trips to Trujillo’s ancient ruins (the adobe city of Chan Chan is nearby, as are the Moche pyramids of Huaca del Sol y de la Luna). It’s the kind of place where a “couple of days” easily becomes a fortnight.

For a dose of nature and solitude, Paracas National Reserve further south offers a different coastal scene – stark desert dunes meeting the ocean in dramatic fashion. Paracas’s beaches aren’t for parties or surfing, but rather for marveling at wildlife and otherworldly landscapes.

I biked through the reserve’s rust-red sands to reach hidden coves where sea birds flock. A boat tour to the Ballestas Islands (dubbed “poor man’s Galápagos”) brought me face to face with barking sea lions and squadrons of penguins. If you crave quiet and surreal scenery, Paracas delivers – the reserve’s secluded beaches are among the most tranquil in Peru.

Even around the capital Lima, the coast offers quick getaways. Lima itself sits on cliffs above pebbly shores where surfers carve waves year-round. In the Southern Hemisphere summer (December to March), Limeños flock to beaches just south of the city for weekend sun. 

Punta Hermosa and Asia are hotspots for those seeking a mix of sand and nightlife, though they cater more to locals and expats. As a backpacker, I found the northern beaches more inviting and affordable, but it’s good to know you can catch some waves even near the capital.

Tips for Beach Travel in Peru

• Best Time for Beaches: Peru’s coastal climate is opposite the highlands. Summer (Dec–March) is hot and sunny on the coast – ideal for beach bumming, especially in northern Peru. Winter (June–Aug) brings cooler temps and garúa (coastal fog) around Lima, but up north it stays warm. Plan beach time in Dec–March for best weather; shoulder months are pleasant and less crowded ​travelandleisure.com.
• Surf’s Up: Beginners can find surf schools in Máncora and Huanchaco with board rentals ($10–15 USD per day). Experienced surfers might seek out Chicama (near Trujillo) famed for one of the world’s longest left-hand waves. Bring or rent a wetsuit; despite the sun, the Humboldt Current makes the Pacific quite chilly south of Piura.
• Beach Safety: Stick to popular beaches during daylight for swimming – some areas have strong currents or rocky shores. In party towns, watch your belongings on the sand if you go for a dip. Máncora’s party scene is fun but keep your wits: petty theft can occur if you leave phones or wallets unattended while you dance the night away.
• Off the Beaten Path: If you have time, explore lesser-known beaches. Los Órganos just south of Máncora offers a quieter alternative with beautiful sands, and Punta Sal is another pristine stretch popular with Peruvians. Don’t expect Caribbean-style development – Peru’s beach towns are more rustic, which is part of their charm for the backpacker crowd.

Cultural Encounters: From Ancient Traditions to Modern City Life

Backpacking Peru isn’t only about chasing vistas; it’s equally a journey through living cultures and history that dates back millennia. As I wandered through a highland village market, the scent of ripe guava and the sounds of Quechua chatter made it clear: Peru’s cultural tapestry is as vibrant as its landscapes.

Cusco, once the capital of the Inca Empire, is the cultural heartbeat for many travelers. Cobblestone streets wind past Inca stone walls and baroque colonial churches, bearing witness to layers of history.

It’s easy to spend days here: bargaining for alpaca wool hats and woven textiles at the San Pedro Market, marveling at the precise stone masonry of Qorikancha (the Inca Temple of the Sun) which underlies a Spanish convent, or simply people-watching in the Plaza de Armas where locals in traditional attire mingle with tourists.

One June evening, I found myself swept up in the spectacle of Inti Raymi, the Festival of the Sun. Dancers in radiant costumes reenacted Inca rituals at the Sacsayhuamán ruins above Cusco – a mesmerizing blend of ancient ceremony and modern pageantry that gave me goosebumps. Even if you miss festival dates, Cusco’s nightlife has its own cultural fusion: I attended a folkloric dance show over pisco sours one night, and hit a club playing Andean-electronic music the next.

Venture beyond Cusco and you encounter the living culture of the Sacred Valley. In villages like Pisac and Chinchero, Quechua communities host colorful markets where you can chat (with a few words of Quechua or a friendly smile) with artisans selling hand-loomed shawls and silver jewelry.

Many backpackers opt for homestays to experience daily life – I stayed with a family in Ollantaytambo who taught me to peel potatoes with a simple knife (a skill every Andean farmer seems to master young) and shared legends of the apus (mountain spirits) as we sat around a small stove for warmth. These personal connections often become the highlight of a trip, forging memories beyond what any guidebook site can offer.

Down south on the shores of Lake Titicaca, the world’s highest navigable lake, you’ll find the Uros floating islands and communities like Amantaní and Taquile. I took an overnight trip from Puno, the port city, and stayed with an Aymara family on Amantaní.

We played soccer with local kids at 4,000 m altitude (quite the challenge!), and at night our hosts dressed us in their traditional attire for a community dance – a slightly touristy but heartwarming affair under the brilliant Milky Way skies. The lake region has a slower pace; sunrise over Titicaca’s shimmering waters, with Bolivia’s Cordillera Real in the distance, is a sight that instills a deep sense of peace.

Peru’s cultural experiences aren’t confined to the Andes. Lima, the bustling capital, is a modern Latin metropolis but retains pockets of history and art. Strolling through the Barranco district, I admired vibrant street murals and popped into art galleries housed in old republican-era mansions.

In Lima’s historic center, I stood in the shadow of the 16th-century Cathedral and explored the catacombs of San Francisco Monastery, thinking of the blend of indigenous and Spanish influences that shaped this country.

For museum buffs, Lima’s Museo Larco offers an eye-opening journey through 5,000 years of pre-Columbian cultures, complete with a renowned collection of Moche pottery (including some explicit “erotic pots” that always draw curious grins from visitors).

Wherever you go, consider engaging with Peru’s cultural side respectfully. This might mean learning a few phrases in Quechua or Spanish, asking permission before photographing locals (especially in traditional dress), and being mindful that some traditions or beliefs (like respect for Pachamama, Mother Earth) are held deeply by your hosts.

Many travelers leave Peru not just with stunning photos, but with newfound appreciation for indigenous heritage and how it endures in everyday life – from the festival calendar to the hand-woven clothes people wear.

Tips for Cultural Experiences

• Learn and Participate: Read up on local customs for areas you’ll visit. In highland villages, simple gestures like exchanging greetings in Quechua (try saying “Allillanchu” for hello) can delight locals. If you’re invited to participate in something – be it chewing coca leaves ceremonially or a hometown football match – give it a go! These moments often become cherished stories.
• Respect Sacred Sites: Peru’s ruins (Inca or earlier) are more than tourist attractions; they are often considered sacred. Observe any rules (like no climbing on certain structures) and be mindful – e.g., at Machu Picchu don’t litter or disturb the stonework. Some churches may require modest attire to enter, and photography might be restricted.
• Ethical Photography: Always ask before photographing someone, and be prepared that some may request a small tip (a couple of soles) for posed photos, especially in touristy areas like Cusco where locals dress in traditional clothes for this purpose. Candid shots of daily life (like markets) are wonderful, but if someone clearly doesn’t want a camera pointed at them, respect that.
• Homestays and Tours: To truly dive into culture, consider a homestay or community tour. Organizations like Percy’s Tours in Huaraz or various Quechua-led cooperatives in the Sacred Valley can arrange stays that benefit local families. On Lake Titicaca, the tourism office in Puno or iPerú information centers can set up island homestays. Bring small gifts if you stay with a family – fruit or school supplies for kids are appreciated since rural communities have limited access to those.

Culinary Adventures from Street Food to World-Class Cuisine

One cannot talk about Peru without celebrating its cuisine – a fusion of indigenous tradition, Spanish influence, and immigrant flavors (African, Chinese, Japanese) that has earned global acclaim. As a backpacker, I found food to be an adventure of its own, whether I was slurping soup at a market stall or splurging on a fancy ceviche in Lima. Every meal felt like a cultural immersion.

Take ceviche, for example. This simple dish of fresh fish “cooked” in lime juice with onions and chili is Peru’s proud national dish – refreshing, spicy, and absolutely addictive. I’ll never forget my first true Peruvian ceviche: in a no-frills eatery at Lima’s Surquillo market, the chef handed me a bowl brimming with chunks of silky sole, tangy leche de tigre (the citrus marinade) and a side of sweet potato and giant corn.

The flavors were a revelation – the bracing acidity, the kick of rocoto pepper, the sweetness balancing it out. It cost me about S/15 (~$4), proving that you don’t need a big budget to eat like a king in Peru. Lima’s street food and markets are gold mines for foodies: try anticuchos, savory skewers of grilled cow heart sold at evening street carts (don’t be squeamish, they’re deliciously tender and smoky), or emoliente, a warm herbal drink locals swear by on cool nights.

For those with deeper pockets or a special occasion to toast, Lima is also home to some of the world’s top restaurants. In fact, four Lima restaurants ranked in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2023 – more than any other city in the world​ washingtonpost.com.

The crown jewel, Central, was named the #1 restaurant globally​, celebrating Peru’s biodiversity in its inventive tasting menu (imagine courses that take you from Amazonian jungles to Andean heights through ingredients). Other Lima heavyweights like Maido (famed for Nikkei, the Japanese-Peruvian fusion) and Astrid y Gastón continue to wow diners.

As a backpacker, I couldn’t afford all of them, but I did save up for a lunch at La Mar Cebichería, a renowned seafood restaurant by celebrity chef Gastón Acurio. Sitting at a communal table, I savored a trio of ceviches and a pisco sour cocktail, and it was worth every sol.

Peru’s culinary excellence isn’t hype – it’s very much real, rooted in rich local produce and culinary creativity. Even if you stick mostly to budget eateries, consider treating yourself to at least one mid-range restaurant meal in Lima; many offer set lunch menus (menú del día) that are relatively affordable.

In the Andes, the cuisine shifts to heartier fare to combat the cold. You’ll encounter lomo saltado, a wonderful stir-fry of beef, tomatoes, and onions served over fries and rice – it’s a perfect metaphor for Peru itself (an Asian-influenced dish that’s now a national staple) ​bunchofbackpackers.com.

I often grabbed lomo saltado or ají de gallina (creamy chicken stew spiced with yellow chili) at Cusco’s local eateries for around S/10. Adventurous eaters might try cuy – roasted guinea pig – which is a delicacy in highland villages. Yes, guinea pig may challenge your Western palate, but it’s traditionally served during festivals.

I tried cuy in a family-run restaurant in Arequipa; it arrived whole on the plate, teeth and all, which admittedly gave me pause. But once I got past the appearance, the meat tasted like a richer, gamier rabbit. Not something I’d eat often, but an interesting bite of tradition. Arequipa, by the way, has its own specialties: rocoto relleno (spicy red peppers stuffed with meat and cheese) became my favorite dish there, perfectly paired with a local beer like Arequipeña.

Don’t overlook Peru’s drinks and fruits. In coastal and Amazon regions, you can find stands selling fresh juices made from tropical fruits like lucuma, chirimoya, or camu camu – fruits you might never have heard of but will quickly love. A cold chicha morada (sweet purple corn punch) is a refreshing non-alcoholic option anywhere in the country.

Of course, the Pisco Sour is Peru’s famed cocktail (made from grape brandy pisco, lime, syrup, egg white, and bitters). It packs a punch – two or three of those and you’ll understand why locals say “Pisco sours are tricky”! If you visit the Ica region (famous for the Huacachina oasis), consider a winery tour to see pisco production and taste Peru’s wines (Tacama is a notable vineyard).

Tips for Foodies on a Budget

• Eat like a local: Look for menú signs at lunchtime. Small restaurants throughout Peru offer a set meal (soup + main + drink) for as low as S/8–15 (about $2-4). These menus are filling and tasty – I often enjoyed quinoa soup followed by trout or lomo saltado. Markets are also great: the mercado central in cities usually has stalls with cheap, authentic eats (just be cautious with raw foods if you have a sensitive stomach).
• Street food safety: Peruvian street food is delicious, but take some precautions. Go for stalls that are popular (high turnover means fresh food). I found that cooked items (grilled, boiled, fried) are generally safe. I did indulge in fresh fruit juices and had no issues, but use your judgment – stick to peeled fruits or boiled water beverages if unsure. Carry hand sanitizer and use it before eating finger foods like empanadas.
• Vegetarian options: While Peru can be meat-heavy (especially in local joints), vegetarian travelers will still eat well. Dishes like tallarines verdes (pasta in a basil-spinach pesto), stuffed avocado salads, and the abundance of fresh produce offer respite. In tourist centers like Cusco or Lima’s Miraflores, vegetarian and even vegan restaurants are common. Don’t miss trying chuño (freeze-dried potatoes) and oca (an Andean tuber) in highland areas – traditional carb sources that often appear in veggie-friendly stews.
• Cost of eating out: If you’re on a shoestring, you can easily eat on $10-15 per day or less by sticking to local eateries and markets. A hostel kitchen is a bonus – supermarkets are well-stocked if you want to cook. That said, budget some extra for the must-try experiences like a fresh ceviche by the sea or a night out sampling street food in Lima’s Barranco. These won’t break the bank and are highlights of traveling in Peru.

Practical Information for Backpackers in Peru

After the tales of adventure, let’s get down to brass tacks: the essential info you need to travel smartly and safely in Peru. From entry requirements to daily budgets, this section compiles authoritative advice and hard-won backpacker wisdom.

Visa and Entry Requirements

The good news is that Peru is very welcoming to travelers. Visitors from most countries (including the USA, Canada, UK, EU, Australia, and New Zealand) do not need to obtain a visa in advance for tourism​trexperienceperu.com.

On arrival, immigration typically stamps your passport with a tourist entry valid for up to 90 days in a 180-day period​ gov.uk. In fact, Peruvian law allows a maximum of 183 days per year as a tourist, but it’s at the discretion of the immigration officer how many days you get upon entry (90 is common)​gov.uk.

Make sure your passport is valid for at least six months beyond your entry date (a requirement for entry)​ gov.uk, and they may ask to see proof of onward travel (like a return ticket) at the border trexperienceperu.com. I was asked for my onward flight in Lima, so it’s wise to have a printout or booking confirmation.

If you plan to stay longer than the allowed period, you technically should apply for an extension or a different visa. Overstaying is possible to resolve by paying a fine (around $1 per day overstayed) when you leave, but it’s not recommended to rely on that – rules can change.

Instead, some travelers do a quick border run (for example, cross into Bolivia or Chile and come back) to reset their stay, but again, always check current regulations.

For any non-tourist activities (like study, volunteering, or work), or if you’re from a country that requires a visa (some Asian, African, and Central American nationalities do), contact the Peruvian consulate well before your trip for the proper visa​ gov.uk.

Upon arrival by air, Peru no longer uses paper landing cards; your entry is recorded digitally via the Tarjeta Andina de Migración system trexperienceperu.com.

Still, keep track of your entry date. You might need it for hotel check-ins (some ask how long you’ve been in Peru) and definitely when planning your exit to ensure you don’t overstay. If you arrive overland, ensure you get an entry stamp at the border – it’s crucial as you’ll need it to exit. If you somehow miss the stamp, there is an online process to report it​, but avoiding that hassle by double-checking for a stamp is best.

Best Time to Visit Peru

Peru is truly a year-round destination, but weather and crowds vary by region and season. Broadly, the country has two main seasons: wet season (roughly November to March) and dry season (April to October), but because of Peru’s diverse geography, the “best time” depends on where you’re headed:

• Highlands (Cusco, Machu Picchu, Huaraz, Lake Titicaca): Dry season (May–Sept) is ideal for clear skies and trekking​ audleytravel.com. Days are sunny, nights cold at high altitudes. This is also peak tourist season (especially June–Aug), so expect larger crowds at Machu Picchu and higher prices on tours. Shoulder months April and October can be lovely – slightly less predictable weather, but fewer tourists. Rainy season (Dec–Mar) sees frequent afternoon showers, and some trails get muddy or may close. The Inca Trail is closed every February for maintenance​ travelandleisure.com, and landslides can occasionally disrupt train service to Machu Picchu in the worst rains. However, visiting the highlands in wet season has upsides: it’s lush and green, crowds are thinner, and you can often snag accommodation deals. Just pack good rain gear.
• Coastal (Lima, Paracas, Northern beaches): Almost the reverse of the highlands. Summer (Dec–March) is hot and sunny on the coast – best for beach weather and Lima’s nightlife is buzzing with locals on holiday. In Lima, this is peak tourist time too for domestic travelers. Winter on the coast (June–Aug) brings cooler temps; Lima often sits under a gray fog. It rarely rains in Lima, but it will be damp and drizzly. This is low season in coastal areas, but surf is up (wetsuit needed!). Notably, if you can’t stand crowds, consider Lima in shoulder season (Sept–Nov, Mar–May) when weather is moderate and there are fewer tourists​.
• Amazon (Iquitos, Puerto Maldonado): The jungle is hot and humid year-round, with a wetter period roughly Dec–May. “Dry” season (Jun–Sep) sees slightly less rain and lower river levels – meaning fewer mosquitos and easier wildlife spotting as animals stay near water sources. However, lower rivers can mean longer hikes to reach oxbow lakes or certain riverside lodges. Wet season means some tours might involve more boating (as waterways swell) and there’s a higher chance of daily thunderstorms. Wildlife can be active in wet season (plenty of fruiting trees), but access to some areas might be restricted. No matter when you go, bring serious insect repellent and be ready for both sun and rain. Jungle lodges often have rubber boots for guests due to mud in rainy months.

If your Peru itinerary spans multiple regions (e.g., mountains and beaches), aim for April–May or Sept–Oct as a happy medium. During these shoulder seasons, you generally avoid the worst of the rains while also sidestepping the largest crowds and highest prices of peak months​.

For example, late April in Cusco can be wonderful with wildflowers from the receding rains, and October in Mancora is warm with just a trickle of tourists.

That said, some events might sway your timing. If you want to trek the Inca Trail, you’ll need to stick to the April–Jan window (and realistically May–Sept for best trail conditions). If you’re a festival fanatic, coming in late June for Cusco’s Inti Raymi or Puno’s Candelaria in February can be culturally rewarding (just book accommodation well ahead).

In summary, there is no single “off-season” in Peru given its varied climate zones – it’s more about rotating peak seasons: highlands peak in mid-year, coast peaks in early-year. Always research the specific regions for when to go, but as a rule of thumb the dry season (May–Oct) is the safest bet for most outdoor activities across Peru​.

Staying Safe on the Road

Peru is a warm and welcoming country, and I felt safe during most of my travels, but like anywhere, it pays to be informed and alert. In recent times, there have been some upticks in crime in certain areas, including the capital.

In fact, in early 2025, the government even declared a 30-day state of emergency in Lima and the port city of Callao due to a surge in violent crime by organized gangs​independent.co.uk. This allowed the army to assist police and temporarily restricted some freedoms to get the situation under control. What does this mean for a traveler?

Mainly, it’s a reminder to stay situationally aware, especially in big cities, and heed local advice and news.

Here are key safety tips, combining backpacker know-how with official advisories:

• Watch Your Belongings: Petty theft is the most common issue travelers encounter. In crowded areas (buses, markets, festivals), use a money belt or keep your daypack in front of you. Pickpocketing and bag-snatching happen in busy tourist spots – I met travelers who lost phones in a moment of distraction. Be particularly cautious in Lima, Cusco, Arequipa and other city centers​ . I always carried a photocopy of my passport and kept the original locked at my hostel; if a police officer needs ID, a copy is usually sufficient, and it’s safer in case of theft.
• Phone Safety: Unfortunately, phone snatching by thieves on motorcycles has become common in Lima and some other cities​. They spot people casually using phones curbside or in a taxi with the window open and snatch the device. To avoid this, I only used my phone away from the street (inside a café or shop) or kept a tight grip with both hands if checking maps on a sidewalk. At night, I often left my smartphone in my hostel and carried a basic phone, to remove worry.
• Taxis and Transport: Do not hail random taxis off the street in major cities​. Unlicensed taxi scams and express kidnappings (where you’re briefly abducted and forced to withdraw money) have occurred. Instead, use app-based services like Uber, Cabify or Beat in cities (they are widespread in Lima and Cusco), or have your hotel/hostel call a reputable taxi. At Lima Airport, ignore any aggressive touts and go to the official taxi counters or use a rideshare app. When in a taxi or car, keep windows up and doors locked in traffic, especially in Lima – thieves have been known to reach into cars at red lights​. For long-distance buses, stick to well-known companies (Cruz del Sur, Oltursa, Movil Tours, etc.). These reputable companies have secure luggage handling and safer driving records​. On overnight buses, I kept my small backpack (with valuables) on me or used it as a pillow, and never left anything in the overhead rack just in case​.
• Solo Travel and Trekking: Solo backpacking in Peru is common, and you’ll easily meet others on the gringo trail. In cities at night, stick to well-lit, busy areas, and avoid walking alone late especially if you’ve been drinking. In Cusco, for example, some streets empty out late; I’d take a quick taxi for a few soles to get home safe. When hiking, even on popular day trails like Rainbow Mountain or Laguna 69, it’s better to go with at least one partner or through a tour. Aside from crime, altitude and navigation are concerns, so inform someone of your plans and expected return. Sadly, there have been incidents of trekkers getting lost or encountering trouble when going totally alone. If you do go solo, double down on caution and preparation.
• Protests and Political Unrest: Peruvians exercise their right to protest frequently, and demonstrations can flare up, especially over political or economic issues. In 2022–2023 there were notable protests that even disrupted travel (roadblocks and temporary closure of Machu Picchu occurred then). While tourists were not targeted, you don’t want to be caught in the middle. Avoid any protests or large gatherings – as a foreigner, participation is actually illegal and can get you deported​. If you find a plaza filling with protesters, it’s your cue to move elsewhere. Keep an eye on local news or ask hostel staff if there are any planned strikes (known as paros). If a major strike is coming (e.g., transportation strike), adjust travel plans accordingly. The UK and US travel advisories are good to monitor online for any region-specific warnings.
• Nature and Health Safety: Mother Nature commands respect in Peru. If you’re doing high-altitude climbs, know the symptoms of severe altitude sickness (like extreme headache, confusion, breathlessness at rest) – if these occur, descend immediately. When in the Amazon, use mosquito repellent and consider anti-malarial meds if advised by a travel doctor, depending on the zone (Peru’s Amazon has malaria and dengue in some areas​smartraveller.gov). In mountainous areas, the sun is intense – wear sunscreen and lip balm with SPF (I learned this the hard way with blistered lips after a day on Lake Titicaca). Also, don’t underestimate distances or overestimate your abilities – if a local says a hike will take 6 hours, it likely will, and starting early in the day is always wise to avoid being out after dark. Lastly, always have travel insurance that covers adventure activities; medical evacuations (like needing a helicopter off a mountain) are hugely expensive otherwise.
• Trust Your Instincts: Perhaps the best tool is your common sense and gut feeling. Peruvians are generally kind and helpful. If someone offers you help and your gut says it’s genuine, it probably is (I’ve had wonderful random help, like a local sharing their phone hotspot when I was lost). Conversely, if a situation or person is giving you bad vibes, remove yourself. I avoided some sketchy-feeling bars in Lima and opted for ones I’d heard of from other travelers instead. Little choices can keep you safe. And do connect with other backpackers – swapping safety tips and experiences in hostel common rooms is invaluable.

By staying alert but not paranoid, you’ll likely have a trouble-free trip aside from a bout of traveler’s tummy or a minor scrape. Peru wants visitors to have an amazing time, and the government and tourism industry certainly work to keep main tourist areas safe. I found that following basic precautions was enough to feel secure nearly everywhere I went. Remember, tens of thousands of adventurers travel Peru each year without incident​ trexperienceperu.com. With preparation and awareness, you’ll be part of those happy ranks, focused on the stunning vistas and rich culture rather than any safety woes.

Getting Around: Transportation Tips

Peru is a large country – roughly the size of Alaska – but thankfully it has a well-developed network of buses, and affordable domestic flights connect major cities. As a backpacker, you’ll likely experience a bit of everything: long bus rides through the night, cramped colectivos, maybe a scenic train, and perhaps a quick flight to save time. Here’s how to navigate:

• Buses (Long Distance): Buses are the lifeblood of travel in Peru. They range from economy coaches to luxurious semi-cama or full-cama buses with reclining seats akin to business class on airplanes. For comfort and safety, stick to reputable companies on popular routes. Cruz del Sur is the most famous – their buses have comfy seats, onboard toilets, movies, and sometimes even meal service. (I took Cruz del Sur from Lima to Arequipa, 16 hours, and they provided dinner and a breakfast snack. The VIP seats downstairs fully reclined like a bed​ tripadvisor.com.) Other good companies include Oltursa, Movil Tours, Civa, and RedBus (an aggregator where you can book multiple operators online). It’s worth paying a bit more for the top-tier companies on overnight routes because they have better safety records and secure baggage handling. Always keep your passport and valuables in your carry-on with you on the bus; don’t put those in checked luggage or in the overhead bin​ smartraveller.gov.au. For any bus, a fleece or blanket and earplugs help, as air-con can be cold and movies loud. Also, note that on some winding Andean roads, even good drivers can’t prevent occasional motion sickness – have motion sickness tablets handy if you’re prone.
• Hop-On/Hop-Off Backpacker Buses: An alternative to public buses is services like Peru Hop, a hop-on hop-off bus geared towards backpackers. Peru Hop covers routes from Lima south to Paracas, Huacachina, Arequipa, Cusco and even into Bolivia. The appeal is that it’s flexible (you can stop off for a few days and then catch the next bus), and they include some tours or stops at sights along the way. They also pick up and drop off at hostels, which is convenient and feels secure for solo travelers. I used Peru Hop between Arequipa and Puno, and it was a fun, social ride with commentary from an English-speaking guide on board. The downside: cost. It can be nearly double the price of public buses​foodtravelexplore.com​. If you value ease and meeting fellow travelers on the bus, Peru Hop is great; if you’re pinching pennies, public buses work just fine. Many first-timers in South America go with Peru Hop for peace of mind – it’s certainly a safe way to see a lot without language hassles​.
• Trains: Peru is not crisscrossed by trains, but a few routes stand out. The Cusco to Machu Picchu train (operated by PeruRail and Inca Rail) is a gorgeous ride along the Urubamba River – if you’re not hiking, this is how you reach Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Town). It’s pricey by local standards (about $60-$100 one way, more for luxury services), but quite an experience with panoramic windows. Book these in advance during high season. Another spectacular train is the Andean Explorer that runs from Cusco to Puno (Lake Titicaca) and onward to Arequipa – it’s a luxury tourist train, expensive, more like a rolling hotel, but an unforgettable splurge for some. Most backpackers skip that due to cost, but I mention it in case you’re a train enthusiast. Lastly, there’s the Central Railway from Lima to Huancayo, one of the highest train routes in the world, but it runs infrequently and is more of an attraction than practical transport.
• Colectivos and Local Transport: Within regions, you may use colectivos – shared taxis or minivans that depart when full. They’re ubiquitous and cheap. For example, from Cusco to the Sacred Valley towns, colectivos are the fastest and cheapest way (a van from Cusco to Ollantaytambo cost me about S/15, versus S/40 for a tourist shuttle). They can be cramped and the driving… let’s say “assertive,” but they are generally safe in daylight for short trips. Just keep your bag on your lap. In cities, municipal buses and combis (minibuses) are super cheap (S/1 or 2 a ride in Lima), but routes can be confusing for newcomers and they can get packed. If you have time and patience, they’re an adventure – I took local buses in Lima to get from Miraflores to downtown, and while it was crowded, folks were helpful in telling me where my stop was.
• Domestic Flights: Peru’s distances can be vast (a bus from Lima to Cusco is 20+ hours), so a domestic flight can be a time-saver if your budget allows. Airlines like LATAM, Sky Airline, and Viva Air (a low-cost carrier) serve routes between Lima, Cusco, Arequipa, Juliaca (Puno), Iquitos, etc. Flying Lima–Cusco or Lima–Arequipa can be as quick as 1.5 hours versus a full day by bus. Prices vary – booking early can get fares like $60-$100. Keep luggage weight in mind; budget airlines charge for checked bags. One note: if coming from low altitude (Lima) to high (Cusco or Juliaca), be prepared to feel the altitude upon landing – don’t schedule strenuous activity immediately after flying in.
• Taxis and Rideshares: In addition to earlier safety notes about taxis, a quick recap: use apps or official taxis. Uber and others are widely used in Lima, Cusco, and Arequipa, often cheaper than street taxis and without haggling. In smaller towns, you may rely on mototaxis or tuk-tuks for short hops – they’re cheap (a couple soles) and fun, just hang on tight! Always agree on a fare before hopping in if there’s no meter.
• Border Crossings: If your journey continues to Bolivia, Chile, or Ecuador, popular border crossings are generally straightforward. The Puno (Peru) – Copacabana (Bolivia) crossing at Kasani is commonly done by tourist bus or collectivo and is usually easy (just mind the Bolivian visa requirements for some nationalities). The Tacna (Peru) – Arica (Chile) crossing can be done with a colectivo taxi that ferries you through both immigrations. To Ecuador, many take a bus from Piura or Chiclayo to Guayaquil or Quito (long rides). Always do border crossings in daylight if possible and stay vigilant with bags – petty theft can occur on international buses. But the majority of travelers cross without any trouble.

Overall, Peru’s infrastructure is good enough that you can reach even remote spots without heroic efforts. Expect some long travel days – Peru is deceptively large and the Andes don’t make for straight roads – but consider it part of the adventure. Night buses, when comfortable, can double as accommodation and save you time. Just remember to carry essentials in your daypack for long rides: toilet paper (bus rest stops may lack it), snacks and water, a charged phone with offline entertainment or music, and perhaps a Spanish phrasebook to chat with your seatmate. Some of my fond travel memories are from bus rides, sharing oranges and stories with a Quechua farmer and practicing my rusty Spanish.

Budget and Costs: What to Expect

Backpacking Peru can be very affordable compared to North America or Europe, but costs can creep up if you indulge in tours, fancy meals, or frequent flights. Here’s a breakdown to help you budget (all costs in USD for ease):

• Accommodation: Hostel dorms typically range $7–15 per night in most tourist areas (Lima, Cusco on the higher end, smaller towns on the lower end). Private rooms in hostels or basic hotels might go for $20–40. I often paid about $8–10 for a dorm bed that included breakfast. In remote areas, you might find even cheaper guesthouses (I paid $5 in a very simple homestay on Taquile Island). If you plan to camp (with your own tent) in some national parks or along treks unguided, camping can be free or a couple dollars at most.
• Food: As mentioned, sticking to local eateries and markets, you can eat on $10 or less per day. A street empanada snack is under $1. A typical menú lunch is $2–4. Dinner at a local chifa (Chinese-Peruvian eatery) with a huge plate of fried rice might be $5. If you want a nice dinner in a tourist-oriented restaurant, expect $10–15 for a main dish. The occasional splurge at a top restaurant in Lima can be $30+ per person, but that’s optional. Self-catering is possible, but with how inexpensive set meals are, I mostly ate out and found it economical and convenient.
• Transport: Long-distance buses cost roughly $1.50–$2 per hour of journey for comfortable companies. For example, an 8-hour bus could be $15, a 21-hour bus around $30–40. The Peru Hop pass from Lima to Cusco (with stops) was around $180 when I checked – more than public buses, but including some tours. Internal flights can range from $50 (good sale) to $150 one-way for common routes. Local city transport (buses, metro in Lima) is negligible in cost. Taxis within cities can range $3–$10 depending on distance (always haggle or use the meter/app). To illustrate, an Uber from Lima airport to Miraflores (45 minutes) cost me about $10.
• Activities: This is where budgets diverge. Many of Peru’s wonders are low-cost: entry to national parks or ruins can be $3–$20 (Machu Picchu being an outlier at about $45 entry fee). A guided 4-day Inca Trail trek can cost $600–$800 (all-inclusive with guides, permits, porters) – a big hit to a backpacker budget. Cheaper trek alternatives like Salkantay can be found for ~$300. A Colca Canyon 2-day trek tour was about $50 including guide and transport. Jungle tours in Iquitos or Puerto Maldonado vary by lodge comfort: budget $70–$100 per day for a decent lodge package. Museums are generally a few dollars entry. I allocated funds for a few “big ticket” experiences (Machu Picchu, a jungle tour, Nazca Lines flight which was ~$80) and kept other days low-cost to balance out.

To give a concrete idea: As a frugal traveler, you can survive on around $30 per day (staying in dorms or camping, eating cheap, using public transport)​thebrokebackpacker.com.

This would mean mostly self-guided activities or minimal tours. A more comfortable backpacker style – dorms but maybe a private room occasionally, eating a mix of local and a few nice meals, doing guided tours or treks – might land around $50–60 per day on average thebrokebackpacker.com.

This aligns with many travel bloggers’ estimates that $50/day is a good backpacker budget in Peru​ nomadicmatt.com. It allows some tours and fun, and accounts for the intercity travel costs spread out.

If you are very shoestring, it’s possible even under $25 a day by camping or volunteering (many hostels offer free bed in exchange for work) and hitchhiking, but most would find that restrictive. Conversely, if you take several internal flights and do the top-tier treks and a luxury train, you could spend well over $100/day.

ATMs and Money: Peru’s currency is the Nuevo Sol (PEN), often just called “sol”. At the time of writing, $1 USD ≈ 3.7 soles, and €1 ≈ 4.0 soles (rates fluctuate). Cash is king in many places, especially for small purchases, though cards are widely accepted in mid-range and above establishments in cities (Visa more than MasterCard). ATMs are in all cities and tourist towns.

Some ATMs charge hefty fees ($5-7); look for BCP or Scotiabank, which had lower fees or none for certain cards. I’d withdraw the max to minimize fees and stash emergency dollars in a safe spot as backup. You can also exchange USD cash easily at money changers (cambistas) – rates are decent, just count carefully. I advise carrying some small bills; often you’ll need exact change for buses or markets as getting change for a 100-soles note can be tough with street vendors.

Final Inspiring Notes

Backpacking Peru is a rich experience that will challenge and reward you in equal measure. You’ll sweat up high passes, shiver in high-altitude nights, then scorch under desert sun and soothe your muscles in the surf. You’ll haggle over a sweater one day and dine in a world-class restaurant the next. Most of all, you’ll collect stories – of the friendly Cusqueño who guided you when you were lost, of the time you danced in a village festival, of the sight of Machu Picchu emerging from the mist. Peru has a way of making you feel like an explorer discovering diverse worlds within one country.

As you plan and dream, remember to travel with not just your itinerary in mind but an openness to the unexpected. Some of my best memories were happy accidents – stumbling on a parade in Cusco, bonding with a hostel owner in Huaraz who invited me to his family’s farm for a day, or sharing bus-ride snacks with locals.

These interactions deepened my appreciation for Peru and its people, giving me a sense of trust and comfort even in unfamiliar places. By the end of my journey, I realized I didn’t just see Peru; in small ways I felt connected to it.

So whether you’re setting out to conquer Andean summits, surf Pacific waves, or simply get lost in a maze of Inca ruins, do it with gusto. Peru will challenge you (perhaps your lungs, or your notions of food, or your ability to dance huayno tunes), but it will also embrace you.

It’s a country that “truly offers something for every kind of traveler,” as Travel + Leisure aptly put it. For the backpacker and adventure seeker, Peru isn’t just a trip – it’s a tapestry of adventures that, stitched together, tell one heck of a travel story. Get out there and write your own chapter!

¡Buen viaje! Safe travels and enjoy every step of the journey through Peru’s wonders.

Sources:

• UK Government Foreign Travel Advice – Peru (entry requirements and safety)​gov.uk​gov.uk
• TreXperience Peru – Travel Advice 2025 (visa info and safety tips)​trexperienceperu.com​trexperienceperu.com
• The Independent – UK FCDO travel warning (crime surge in Lima 2025)​independent.co.uk
• Smartraveller (Australian Gov) – Peru safety and health advice​smartraveller.gov.au​smartraveller.gov.au
• Travel + Leisure – Best Times to Visit Peru (season and weather insights)​travelandleisure.com​travelandleisure.com
• South America Backpacker – Colca Canyon guide (Canyon depth)​southamericabackpacker.com
• The Broke Backpacker – Peru budget breakdown (daily cost estimates)​thebrokebackpacker.com
• Nomadic Matt – Peru cost guide 2025 (budget travel estimates)​nomadicmatt.com
• The Washington Post – Peru’s food culture and Lima’s top restaurants​washingtonpost.com​washingtonpost.com
• The Broke Backpacker – Best Beaches in Peru (Máncora, Huanchaco info)​thebrokebackpacker.com​thebrokebackpacker.com