I arrived in Guatemala with a backpack and a head full of dreams – and on a tight budget. Stepping off a rickety bus into the cobbled streets of Antigua, I immediately felt the warmth of the people and the vibrancy of the culture.
This Central American gem is surprisingly kind to the wallet: from majestic Mayan ruins hidden in northern jungles to colonial towns ringed by volcanoes, Guatemala offers rich experiences without a lavish spend.
Over the next few weeks, I traversed the country year-round, through sunny days and sudden downpours, discovering how to stretch every quetzal (local currency) while savoring every moment.
In this, I’ll share my journey exploring Guatemala on a budget – blending personal stories with practical tips on visas, transport, accommodation, food, and seasonal advice. Whether you’re planning to wander ancient Tikal, swim in the turquoise pools of Semuc Champey, sip coffee in Antigua, boat across Lake Atitlán, or learn Spanish in Quetzaltenango, you’ll find that adventure here doesn’t have to break the bank.
Let’s hit the road!
Visa and Entry Requirements
Entering Guatemala turned out to be one of the easiest parts of my trip. For most travelers from common nationalities – including the United States, Canada, the UK, Australia, New Zealand, and the European Union – no advance visa is required for tourist visits up to 90 days .
I’m a U.S. citizen, so I simply showed my passport (valid for more than six months past my entry date, as required ) at immigration and was waved through with a smile and a 90-day entry stamp. Many other nationalities enjoy this visa-free policy (Guatemala has extended visa-free entry to 83 countries, including all Schengen Zone nations, the US, Canada, etc. ).
Do note one recent requirement: before arrival (and again before leaving), travelers must fill out a short online immigration declaration form and carry the emailed QR code confirmation . I completed mine on my phone the night before my flight – it only took a few minutes.
Upon arrival at La Aurora International Airport in Guatemala City, I presented the QR code and breezed through customs with no hassle. There were no mandatory vaccinations or fees to enter as a tourist, though I kept my COVID vaccine card handy just in case (requirements can change, so it’s wise to check the latest info).
Once officially in Guatemala, I felt an excited flutter – I had up to three months to play with, and my shoestring adventure was officially underway!
Tip: If you plan to stay longer than 90 days, you can apply for a visa extension once in Guatemala City, but for most backpackers 90 days is plenty. Also remember to get your passport stamped on entry – if not, head to the immigration office to avoid fines .
Getting Around Guatemala on a Budget
Getting around Guatemala proved to be an adventure unto itself – and delightfully cheap. I quickly learned the art of riding the famous “chicken buses,” Guatemala’s converted school buses that are the most inexpensive way to travel .
On my first chicken bus ride, from Guatemala City to Antigua, I clambered aboard a brightly painted former North American school bus crammed three-to-a-seat with Indigenous women in colorful textiles, basket-toting market vendors, school kids, and a few curious backpackers.
The fare collector yelled destinations out the door as we careened off in a cloud of diesel smoke. It was crowded and bumpy, cumbia music blared from the driver’s radio, and I clung to the seat in front of me as we zigzagged through the highlands – but it only cost Q10 (about $1.30) for a 1–2 hour journey ! Short hops can cost as little as Q5 (under $1) . Even a three-hour ride, say from Antigua to Lake Atitlán, runs only around Q40–Q60 ($5–$8) .
These rickety buses, known locally as camionetas, might not be luxurious, but they are a genuine window into Guatemalan life – every ride felt like a cultural experience, full of spontaneous conversations and the thrill of the unexpected.
A colorful “chicken bus” at Lake Atitlán, Guatemala – the quintessential budget transport. Converted school buses like this charge only a few quetzales for local routes , offering an authentic (if crowded) way to travel alongside locals.
Of course, chicken buses aren’t the only option. For slightly more money, I sometimes opted for tourist shuttles – minivan shuttles that connect popular destinations. These shared shuttles can be arranged through hostels or travel agencies in each town.
They offer door-to-door service (picking you up at your hostel and dropping you off at your next one) and save the hassle of multiple bus transfers. For example, after lingering in Antigua, I booked a shuttle to Lanquín (the gateway village to Semuc Champey) rather than tackling numerous chicken bus changes.
The shuttle cost me around $20 for an all-day trip, versus perhaps $10 total in chicken bus fares – a worthwhile splurge for the comfort and convenience on a long, winding route.
Typical shuttle prices range from about $10–$15 for shorter hops (for instance, Antigua to Panajachel on Lake Atitlán) to $25–$40 for all-day rides (like Antigua to Flores in the far north). They are still relatively inexpensive by international standards, and they connect all the major backpacker stops in Guatemala . I found the shuttle rides a great way to swap stories with fellow travelers (and catch a nap between destinations!).
For long-distance routes, Guatemala also has a network of more formal coach buses (often called “primera clase” or first-class buses). These coach buses run between big cities: I took one overnight from Guatemala City up to Flores (near Tikal) – it was a proper coach with reclining seats and even a bathroom on board.
Companies like Autobuses del Norte or Linea Dorada operate such routes. Prices are higher than chicken buses but still affordable: my overnight bus to Tikal region cost around Q200–Q250 (about $25–$32). The bonus was a safer night journey and the chance to sleep through what would have been an 8-10 hour haul.
On these first-class buses, you’re guaranteed your own seat (no three-to-a-seat madness) and they’ll often play movies or music for the ride . If you’re a light sleeper, bring earplugs and a sweater – the drivers love blasting the A/C on night buses.
While domestic flights aren’t common (most travel in-country is overland), there is one notable route: Guatemala City (GUA) to Flores (FRS), near Tikal. I met travelers who were short on time and took the one-hour flight instead of a long bus ride. Several local carriers (TAG and Avianca) service this route.
If booked in advance or during a sale, flights can be found for as low as $70–$100 one-way , though last-minute prices can be higher. I personally stuck to the bus to save money, but it’s good to know flying is an option – especially if you want to maximize time exploring ruins rather than sitting on a bus.
Budget travel safety note: I learned from locals and other travelers some important tips for getting around. It’s best to travel by day whenever possible – roads are easier and safer in daylight, and you reduce the risk of incidents like highway robberies or accidents in the dark .
I made a habit of catching the first bus or shuttle out in the morning, aiming to arrive at my next stop by mid-afternoon. Not only did this feel safer, but it also meant I had daylight to find my hostel and get oriented. On chicken buses, I kept my daypack on my lap and used a small luggage lock for zippers – petty theft can occur in crowded buses, so staying vigilant is wise.
Larger backpacks usually get hoisted to the roof rack by the ayudante (bus helper); I was nervous at first, but I always retrieved my bag without issue at the end of the ride (just be sure to be awake and alert when your stop is approaching!).
Lastly, while hitchhiking on pickups is common in rural areas (especially around Lake Atitlán villages), I generally avoided it unless I was with a group, just to be on the safe side. Trust your gut, ask locals for advice on routes, and you’ll find getting around Guatemala is not only cheap, but also a memorable part of the journey.
Hostels, Homestays & More
Every night in Guatemala brought a new “home” – and thankfully, budget accommodation is plentiful across the country. As a backpacker, I mostly stayed in hostels and guesthouses, which were both affordable and a great way to meet other travelers.
A bed in a dormitory room typically costs around Q60 per night (roughly $8) for a basic hostel dorm . In places like Antigua, I found dorms ranging from Q50–Q80 depending on the hostel’s amenities. These dorms were often mixed-gender, with anywhere from 4 to 10 beds.
They’re the best bargain – I remember in the chilled-out lakeside town of San Pedro La Laguna (on Lake Atitlán), I snagged a dorm bed with a panoramic lake view for about Q50/night. Waking up to volcanoes mirrored on the water was a luxury, but the price sure wasn’t!
For a bit more privacy, many hostels and family-run hotels offer private rooms starting around Q140–Q300 ($18–$39) a night . As a couple or two friends splitting costs, a private double can be as cheap as $10–$15 each. In Flores, near Tikal, my friend and I upgraded to a simple private room with two beds and a fan for Q150 total – only ~$20, including a basic breakfast.
Don’t expect five-star trappings at that price, but it was clean and secure. Throughout Guatemala, I noticed that even budget accommodations often have nice touches: a courtyard full of hammocks, a rooftop terrace, free coffee in the morning, or a communal kitchen where you can cook.
The backpacker infrastructure is well-developed in popular areas, so you can usually find a hostel on Hostelworld or Booking.com that fits your price range and comfort level.
One of my most enriching budget stays was a homestay with a local family. In Quetzaltenango (known as Xela), which is a hub for Spanish language schools, I enrolled in a week of Spanish classes and opted to live with a host family arranged by the school.
For roughly $150 for the week, I got 25 hours of one-on-one Spanish instruction and a private room in a family’s home, and three home-cooked Guatemalan meals a day .
My host “mamá” treated me like one of her own – feeding me hearty breakfasts of eggs, frijoles (refried beans), plantains and fresh tortillas each morning before class. In the evenings, we’d chat (in halting Spanish on my part) about everything from Guatemalan telenovelas to how to make the perfect tamales. Not only was this an incredible value (about $21 per day for both lodging and food plus lessons), it was a cultural experience I’ll cherish forever.
If you plan to study Spanish or volunteer in Guatemala, definitely consider a homestay – it’s budget-friendly and gives you an authentic glimpse of daily life. Even outside of formal homestays, some indigenous families around Lake Atitlán’s smaller villages open their homes to travelers for modest fees – a great way to support local communities directly.
Generally, I didn’t need to book far in advance except around major holidays (like Easter’s Semana Santa, when Antigua fills up with visitors). Showing up and bargaining or asking to see the room first is common practice in Guatemala.
In more remote areas (like Lanquín/Semuc Champey), accommodations may be more rustic – think eco-lodges or jungle hostels where electricity can be limited. For instance, I stayed at a hostel by the river in Lanquín where dorm beds cost about Q75 ($10) and we had limited hot water and set electricity hours – but the starlit nights and sounds of the jungle were worth every penny.
Finally, for the truly shoestring travelers, Guatemala has an active Couchsurfing community as well. I met a backpacker in Xela who couchsurfed part of her trip, staying with locals for free. If you’re open to it, staying with locals via Couchsurfing can bring your accommodation costs down to zero and provide a chance to make local friends (just always exercise usual caution).
As Nomadic Matt says, accommodation in Guatemala is already cheap, but “staying with a local via Couchsurfing makes it free” – and the insights from a local host are priceless.
Local Food on the Cheap
If you’re traveling Guatemala on a budget, rest assured: you will eat very well without spending much.
As a foodie, one of my favorite parts of this journey was diving into the local cuisine and street eats – often for just a few quetzales. The rule I lived by was simple: eat like a local.
That meant seeking out market stalls, tiny family-run comedores (eateries), street food carts, and the menu del día specials, rather than touristy restaurants or fast-food chains. Not only did this save money, it gave me a true taste of Guatemala’s rich culinary traditions.
On average, I could get a filling meal of Guatemalan fare for just a couple of dollars. Street food is particularly cheap – about Q15–Q30 ($2–$4) for a dish . In Antigua’s central park one evening, I followed my nose to a stand grilling shucos, the local version of a hot dog.
For Q10 (around $1.25), I got a freshly toasted bun stuffed with charcoal-grilled chorizo, avocado, cabbage, mayo, ketchup, and hot sauce – Guatemala’s messy, delicious answer to the hot dog. It was so large and loaded I could barely finish it, and it was unbelievably tasty for the price.
Another common street snack I loved were tostadas: crispy corn tortillas smeared with guacamole or refried beans, sprinkled with crumbled cheese and onions. These usually cost only Q5–Q7 each (well under $1), so you can try a variety – I often munched on a trio of different tostadas (guac, beans, and a spicy tomato salsa one) for about Q15 total.
In the mornings, I often grabbed atol de elote, a hot sweet corn porridge drink sold in cups by street vendors (perfect for the cool highland mornings in Xela) for about Q5. And I’d be remiss not to mention fresh tropical fruits: at local markets, I could buy baggies of cut pineapple, papaya, or mango for 2 or 3 quetzales (literally pocket change).
The fruit in Guatemala is abundant and costs mere pennies – a budget traveler’s vitamin boost .
When I wanted a sit-down meal, I’d seek out comedores or eateries where the locals eat. Here, the best deal is usually the “almuerzo del día” or daily lunch menu. For example, in the highland town of Chichicastenango on market day, I found a busy little eatery packed with shoppers and locals.
For Q25 (about $3), they served me a multi-course lunch: a bowl of homemade vegetable soup, a plate of grilled chicken with rice and salad (a common plato típico), a stack of warm tortillas, and a fresco (fruit juice). It was hearty and delicious. In many Guatemalan eateries, traditional meals cost around Q30–Q40 ($4–$5) , often including fresh tortillas made on the spot. Compared to back home, it felt like a steal.
I particularly fell in love with Guatemala’s staple dishes like pepían (a rich, spiced stew often with chicken, vegetables, and pumpkin/sesame seeds) which I tried in a local kitchen in Antigua for about Q35; and kak’ik, a fragrant turkey soup from the Maya Quiché region, which I sampled during a homestay dinner.
For those cravings when I needed something fast and familiar, Guatemala does have fast-food joints (you’ll see Pollo Campero fried chicken everywhere). But interestingly, a McDonald’s combo or a fried chicken meal wasn’t actually that cheap – often around Q40–Q50 ($5–$6) , which is more than a filling local meal.
So I mostly avoided Western fast food, except the occasional stop at a bakery for fresh bread or pan dulce pastries (which are very cheap, e.g., Q2 for a sweet bread at a panadería).
One of my favorite budget food experiences was visiting the local mercados (markets). Each town’s market is a feast for the senses – piles of exotic fruits, vegetables, herbs, meats, and spices.
In Xela’s bustling Minerva market, I joined locals at dawn for breakfast at a market stall: for Q15 I got huevos revueltos (scrambled eggs with tomato and onion), black beans, plantains, queso fresco, and unlimited tortillas, plus a cup of aromatic coffee. Eating elbow-to-elbow with market vendors at 7 AM was an authentic start to the day.
Markets are also the best place to buy snacks for bus rides or hikes – I’d stock up on fresh bananas (literally 5 or 6 for Q5) and chilero (spicy pickled veggies in a bag) to spice up my meals. As one travel guide noted, shopping at the markets for produce is incredibly budget-friendly – fruit costs cents and everything is fresh .
Lastly, I have to mention street barbecue nights. In many towns, as evening falls, grills are set up on street corners. In Flores, I joined a line of locals at a smoky street grill by the lake.
For Q20 I got a plate loaded with charcoal-grilled chicken, chorizo sausage, salad, beans, and tortillas – all hot off the grill. The jovial señora running the stand plied me with extra tortillas and joked with her regular customers as they came and went.
Moments like that – eating incredible food under the stars, surrounded by the buzz of local life, and spending hardly anything – are what make Guatemala fantastic for budget travelers.
Overall, Guatemala taught me that cheap eats can be the best eats. By sticking to street vendors and local joints, I kept my daily food budget around $10 or less and never went hungry.
As a bonus, I was eating exactly what Guatemalans eat, which made me feel more connected. My advice: embrace the street food (it’s not only cheap but often the tastiest option) , bring small bills and coins (vendors often can’t break big notes), and don’t be afraid to try something unknown.
From chuchitos (little tamales) to elotes locos (“crazy corn” on the cob slathered with mayo, cheese, and chili – trust me, it’s delicious), Guatemalan street cuisine is an adventure for your palate that won’t dent your wallet!
Antigua
Antigua Guatemala was my first stop and it felt like stepping into a time capsule – one framed by volcanoes. This UNESCO-listed colonial town, with its pastel facades, dramatic baroque ruins, and cobblestone streets, is a must-visit. Despite Antigua’s popularity, I found plenty of budget-friendly joys here.
Mornings, I’d wander the streets nibbling on freshly baked banana bread from a street vendor (Q5 a slice) as the volcanoes Agua and Fuego emerged from the dawn mist. One morning, I joined a free walking tour (tips-based) which was both informative and fun – the local guide led us through Antigua’s history, from the iconic yellow Santa Catalina Arch to hidden courtyard gardens.
We even popped into a jade workshop and a chocolate museum (with free samples, to my delight!). By 10 AM, the city’s famous markets were in full swing – I loved browsing the handicraft market for souvenirs (beautiful handwoven textiles and beaded jewelry were abundant, though I had to bargain to get a good price).
For nearly free views, every budget traveler in Antigua should hike up Cerro de la Cruz, a hill at the edge of town topped by a stone cross. I hiked up a little footpath in about 20 minutes (it’s safe during the daytime, and often you’ll see other travelers and locals on the trail).
The reward at the top: a panoramic view of Antigua’s terracotta rooftops and church domes, with Volcán de Agua towering directly behind. It’s postcard-perfect, and costs nothing. I sat up there with new friends, enjoying a picnic of fresh mangoes from the market, feeling like a millionaire despite spending only a few quetzales on fruit.
Back in town, I explored ruined churches like Las Capuchinas or Santa Clara – Antigua’s earthquake-ravaged ruins are hauntingly beautiful. Some charge a small entry fee (around Q40, which I skipped due to my tight budget), but even peeking through the gates or admiring the facades from outside was satisfying for me.
The main cathedral by Central Park is free to enter, and in the evenings I often found cultural events or live music in the park. One night there was a free marimba concert under the arches of the Palacio de los Capitanes – locals danced, kids chased each other, and I soaked up the atmosphere without spending a dime.
When it came to accommodation, Antigua has excellent hostels. I stayed at a sociable hostel just a few blocks from the main plaza for about $9 a night in a dorm. It had free coffee all day and a rooftop terrace where we watched Volcán Fuego spit small plumes of ash and lava into the night sky (Fuego is an active volcano visible from Antigua – you can actually hike the adjacent Acatenango Volcano to see Fuego’s eruptions up close, but that overnight trek cost around $90 with guide and gear, a bit above my budget at the time).
Instead, I opted for a more budget-friendly volcano experience: a day trip to Volcán Pacaya, which cost me only Q100 (about $13) for the tour including transport. Pacaya is one of Guatemala’s most accessible active volcanoes. Our group hiked up with a guide (the park entrance fee was another Q50), and at the summit we roasted marshmallows on still-hot lava rocks while gazing at volcanic steam vents – an incredible experience for the price .
Food in Antigua as a backpacker was a mix of market eats and occasional treats. By day, I’d grab lunch from the Comedor Lucky inside the Mercado – a big plate of stew, rice, and salad for Q25. By night, I discovered that some of the fancier restaurants have happy hour deals or budget menus.
For instance, a local expat tipped us off that the rooftop tapas bar on 6a Avenida had a “two tacos and a beer for Q30” deal on Tuesdays. We went and enjoyed craft beer and rooftop views of Antigua by night, feeling very indulgent at about $4 each. Still, nothing beat the street food: in front of La Merced church at night, dozens of food carts set up.
I joined the locals in line for antojitos – we’re talking pupusas (stuffed corn cakes originally from El Salvador but loved here, usually Q10 each), gringas (cheesy pork tacos, Q15), and atol de elote to wash it down. I could feast well for under Q40 ($5) there and got to practice my Spanish chatting with the vendors.
Antigua also serves as a great hub for cheap (or free) side trips. Besides Pacaya volcano, I took a chicken bus (Q8) out to the nearby village of Jocotenango to visit Valhalla Macadamia Farm – a quirky, donation-based farm that educates about sustainable agriculture (and yes, you get to sample macadamia nuts and their homemade macadamia pancakes!).
Another day, I went to Hobbitenango, a Hobbit-themed eco-park in the hills (entry was about Q50 including the pickup truck ride up; it’s a silly but fun half-day if you want nature and views). If you’re into coffee, touring a coffee plantation on the outskirts of Antigua is often free or low-cost – many include free tastings of Guatemala’s renowned coffee.
All in all, Antigua proved that even one of Guatemala’s most popular tourist towns can be thoroughly enjoyed on a backpacker’s budget. By day, I roamed its cobblestone streets and free viewpoints; by night, I socialized at hostel events (salsa lesson night, anyone?) and cheap eateries.
The city’s romantic ambiance is free to soak up. After a few days, though, the call of the lake was too strong – it was time to head to Lake Atitlán for a change of scenery.
Lake Atitlán
They call Lake Atitlán “the most beautiful lake in the world,” and as my chicken bus careened around the final mountain curve, I could see why. Lake Atitlán is a vast sapphire-blue lake cradled by steep hills and three towering volcanoes, and around its shores are a dozen villages each with their own character.
The good news? It’s a budget traveler’s paradise. I based myself in a couple of the lake’s villages to get a taste of each.
My journey to Atitlán itself was thrifty: from Antigua I caught a chicken bus to the town of Chimaltenango (Q10), then another to Sololá (Q15), then down the crazy switchback road to Panajachel (Q5). It was an adventure with multiple transfers (and a chicken literally riding in the aisle at one point!), but those multiple bus rides cost under Q30 total (about $4) – far less than the tourist shuttle.
Upon reaching Panajachel (the gateway town on the lake), I headed straight to the dock to catch a public lancha (boat) to my first destination, San Pedro La Laguna. The public boats are the main way everyone – locals, backpackers, chickens and all – get around the lake.
They’re frequent (every 15-20 minutes during daylight) and super affordable: fares range from Q10 to Q30 depending on distance . My trip from Pana to San Pedro was Q25 (~$3) for a half-hour scenic cruise. The wind whipped my hair, the sun sparkled on the waves, and Volcán San Pedro loomed larger as we drew close. I remember thinking: this boat ride alone is worth $3 for the views!
San Pedro La Laguna is a backpacker haunt, known for its relaxed vibe and nightlife. I checked into Mr. Mullet’s Hostel, a spot well-known among budget travelers (and famed for its weekly rooftop parties). My dorm bed here was Q70/night (~$9) including a simple breakfast – a bit higher than elsewhere, but the hostel had a fun social atmosphere. If I wanted even cheaper, there were bare-bones lodges in town for $5–$8 a night .
San Pedro is one of the cheapest places to learn Spanish too (some friends I met were taking week-long Spanish courses here with homestay for around $200). I spent my days in San Pedro hiking and exploring. One morning, a group of us hiked Indian Nose, a peak on the lake’s ridge famed for its sunrise view.
We arranged a local guide through our hostel for Q100 each, setting off in the dark at 4 AM and reaching the viewpoint as dawn broke. The sight of the lake blanketed in mist, volcano cones poking through pink clouds, and the sun rising over distant mountains was magical – absolutely worth the early wake-up.
Budget tip: you can hike Indian Nose without a tour, but due to past safety incidents, it’s recommended to go with a group/guide during early hours. The fee basically covered the community guide and safe passage.
Each village on Lake Atitlán has its own personality, and you can hop between them cheaply by boat. In San Pedro, I rented a kayak for Q15/hour and paddled along the shoreline, waving at fishermen in their wooden canoes.
In San Marcos La Laguna, known for yoga and hippie retreats, I attended a free meditation session at a hostel and jumped off the famous cliffs at Cerro Tzankujil Nature Reserve (entry Q20) into the refreshing lake. For a splurge, a friend and I indulged in an overnight yoga retreat deal that included lodging, veggie meals, and classes for $30 each – pricey by Guatemalan standards but a steal for what it was.
In Santa Cruz La Laguna, I volunteered for a day at a local NGO project and was rewarded with a free communal dinner and conversations with long-term expats. The village of San Juan charmed me with its women’s weaving cooperatives – I visited one where they showed natural dye techniques; I bought a handwoven scarf for Q80 as a meaningful souvenir, directly supporting the weavers.
Meals around the lake were cheap and cheerful. In San Pedro, there’s a “Gringo Alley” of sorts (Calle Santander) with lots of international eateries catering to tourists – but they’re pricier. Instead, I wandered up towards the market and found ladies grilling “chujitos” – what the locals called shucos or hotdogs – and making fried chicken in big pans.
One night I ate at a tiny comedor by the Catholic church where a smiling señora served me pepian stew with rice for Q20. I also made ample use of my hostel’s communal kitchen: a few friends and I teamed up to cook pasta with market vegetables, splitting the cost (we fed 4 people for maybe Q50 total, or under $2 each – and had a blast cooking together).
Also, don’t miss the coffee on Atitlán. This region grows some of Guatemala’s best coffee beans. Every morning I savored a cup from a street vendor in San Pedro for Q5 – strong, locally grown, and brewed with love.
One of my most memorable free activities was simply watching the sunset. Each evening, locals and travelers would gather by the docks or on the shore in Panajachel or San Pedro to watch the sky turn fiery orange over the volcanoes Tolimán and Atitlán across the water. It was a daily show courtesy of Mother Nature, and it brought a sense of community as we all paused to appreciate the beauty.
Lake Atitlán can be as budget or as costly as you make it – there are boutique hotels and fancy restaurants if you want them, but sticking to simple accommodations, lanchas, and local food kept my wallet happy. After soaking in the tranquility (and a bit of fun chaos) of the lake for about a week, I felt rejuvenated. It was time to swap lake waters for the highland air of Quetzaltenango, often simply called Xela.
Quetzaltenango (Xela)
Quetzaltenango, Guatemala’s second-largest city, doesn’t see as many tourists as Antigua or Atitlán, and that’s exactly its appeal when traveling on a budget. Xela (pronounced “SHAY-la”) sits in the western highlands at 2,300m elevation, surrounded by mountains and volcanoes.
It became my home for over a week as I decided to pause and immerse: I signed up for Spanish classes, volunteered, and lived more like a temporary resident than a hurried traveler. Xela rewarded me with an authentic cultural experience and very low daily costs.
First off, accommodation in Xela was dirt cheap. I stayed with a local family via my language school (as mentioned, roughly $150/week including three meals a day, which is unbeatable ). But even if you’re just passing through, hostels and budget hotels here are often under $10 a night.
Some friends stayed at Casa Seibel, a quaint hostel in a historic building, for about $8 each in a dorm and they raved about its cozy atmosphere and free filtered water/coffee. Xela doesn’t really have party hostels – it’s a more low-key city – but it has lots of student guesthouses given the draw of its Spanish schools.
My daily rhythm in Xela was both relaxed and filled with cheap activities. After morning Spanish classes, I’d wander the city. The Parque Centro América, Xela’s central square, is a lovely place to sit with a street-purchased cup of fruit (Q5) and people-watch.
Around the plaza are neoclassical buildings and the majestic cathedral. Entrance to everything was free – the cathedral, the municipal building with its grand columns, and various galleries.
One afternoon I found a free art exhibition by local students in a colonial building off the square. Xela’s streets are safe and fascinating to explore: you’ll stumble on textile markets, hidden cafés, and bookstores. It’s definitely a city where you don’t need to spend money to enjoy the ambiance.
For outdoor enthusiasts, Xela is a gateway to some awesome hikes. The towering Volcán Santa María (3,772m) looms behind the city, and many travelers hike it at sunrise.
I joined a group organized by Quetzaltrekkers (a nonprofit trekking outfit) for a very affordable price – I believe it was around Q200 ($25) which included guides and breakfast on the summit. Starting at 5 AM, we huffed up Santa María’s steep trail by headlamp and reached the top as the sun painted the sky.
From up there, we could peer down into the active Santiaguito volcano crater puffing away – absolutely thrilling and worth every quetzal. Another weekend, I did a DIY day trip to Fuentes Georginas, natural hot springs nestled in a cloud forest about 45 minutes from Xela.
I split an Uber with friends (Q120 total round trip, so about Q30 each) and paid the entrance fee of ~Q60 to soak in steamy thermal pools surrounded by ferns and mist. It was the perfect budget spa day. If you prefer public transport, chicken buses or minibuses also go near the hot springs from Xela for just a few quetzales, connecting through the town of Zunil.
In terms of food, Xela’s cost of living is lower than the tourist hubs, so you can eat very cheaply. My host mother provided most of my meals (simple Guatemalan dishes like estofado stew, omelets with beans, hearty soups, always with plentiful tortillas). But I also tried out some local student-frequented spots.
Near the university, there were eateries offering “Menu Ejecutivo” lunches – basically a fixed lunch plate – for around Q20.
One evening I craved something other than Guatemalan food and found a tiny Chinese diner (yes, Chinese food in Guatemala!) where a big plate of chow mein was Q25. Also, Xela has lively markets: I visited the Minerva market and La Democracia market, where I bought fresh veggies to cook a stew for my host family (spending maybe Q15 on ingredients that fed four of us).
For a treat, the Xela Pan bakeries are famous – I bought delicious cinnamon bread and shecas (anise-flavored bread rolls) for just a few Q. And whenever I needed a caffeine fix, Xela’s coffee shops were way cheaper than Antigua’s – a cappuccino was about Q15–Q20 ($2–3) in a nice café, and only Q10 from a street cart.
Culturally, Xela gave me budget-friendly insights too. I attended a Mayan cultural night at a community center where local K’iche’ Maya women performed traditional dances – the entry was by donation (I happily gave Q20). Through my language school, I also volunteered teaching English at a local school for a couple of afternoons – cost-free and incredibly rewarding to interact with local kids.
In the evenings, Xela has some bars and pubs catering to students with very cheap beer (a liter of Gallo, the local beer, might be Q20 at a student bar). One bar had live music and no cover charge, so we enjoyed an indie Guatemalan band for the price of a beer.
What I loved about Xela was that it doesn’t cater to tourists, so prices remain local. By engaging with the community – whether via a homestay, volunteering, or just chatting with people at the market – I felt a deep connection without spending much.
If you find yourself in Guatemala for a longer stay, Xela is the perfect place to settle in and live cheaply for a while, all while using it as a base for budget adventures (like multi-day treks to Lago Atitlán or even the Tajumulco volcano climb – the highest peak in Central America – which Quetzaltrekkers also offers at a low cost for what’s included).
After saying goodbye to my host family and the friends I made in Xela, it was time to head into the wild – I set my sights on the jungles of Alta Verapaz, where the famous pools of Semuc Champey awaited.
Semuc Champey
Getting to Semuc Champey is half the adventure. Tucked deep in the lush Alta Verapaz region, Semuc is a series of tiered turquoise limestone pools and waterfalls considered one of Guatemala’s most beautiful natural wonders. It’s remote, so I took an 8-hour shuttle from Xela (you can also go from Antigua or the lake).
The shuttle bounced along winding mountain roads and finally down a dirt track into the village of Lanquín, which is the jumping-off point for Semuc. In Lanquín, there’s essentially no ATMs and limited electricity in spots – this is off-the-grid travel, which I found thrilling (and it incidentally helps you save money, because there’s not much to buy out there beyond basic needs and tours).
I stayed at a rustic jungle hostel by the Cahabón River. The hostel, cradled by forest, cost only Q60 (about $8) for a dorm bed with mosquito net, and came complete with resident fireflies at night and a chorus of howler monkeys in the mornings.
Without reliable Wi-Fi or phone signal, evenings were spent swapping stories with other backpackers by candlelight – a nice break from the digital world. Many hostels in this area offer package deals: for example, mine had a deal where for around Q150 ($20) you got a bed, breakfast and dinner included, which helped since independent dining options are scarce in the jungle.
The family-style dinners (big communal tables under a thatched roof) were hearty – one night we had a BBQ feast of chicken, veggies, and potatoes. Considering it was all-you-can-eat, it fueled me well for the next day’s adventures.
Semuc Champey itself can be visited independently, but most of us at the hostel joined a day tour (to maximize the experiences safely). For about Q200 (~$25) I got a full-day guided tour including transport in a 4x4 truck from Lanquín to Semuc (a bumpy 45-minute ride where we literally stood in the truck bed hanging on – what a blast!), the national park entrance fee, a cave exploration, tubing, and a guide for the pools. If you go on your own, park admission is roughly Q50–Q60 at the gate. Either way, it’s worth it.
We started with the Kan’ba caves: armed with nothing but candles, we waded and swam through a pitch-dark water cave system with an underground waterfall. At one point, the guide said “blow out your candles” and we experienced true darkness and silence – both eerie and awe-inspiring.
Safety note: this cave tour can be challenging – you’re swimming while holding a candle above water – but our local guides were excellent. It might not be for the faint of heart, but it’s certainly a budget adventure I’ll never forget, and it cost only a few dollars as part of the tour.
After emerging from the caves (and reapplying bug spray, which is a must in the jungle), our group grabbed some inner tubes and floated down the Cahabón River.
This was a lazy, scenic tubing ride – essentially free if you have your own tube, or a small tip to rent one. Locals were selling cold beers by the river for Q10, so a few of us indulged in a “float-up bar” experience, merrily sipping as the current carried us downstream under a canopy of green.
By midday, we headed into the Semuc Champey park proper. A steep 30-minute hike brought us to the El Mirador viewpoint, where suddenly the whole postcard scene of Semuc Champey came into view: a natural limestone bridge in the jungle, 300m of stepped turquoise pools cascading through the rainforest .
It was jaw-dropping – truly one of those moments of nature’s splendor. And the best part of budget travel is that this was effectively free; no pricey resort, just a sweaty hike to a priceless view. We descended and spent the afternoon swimming in the pools.
The water was cool, crystalline, and refreshing after the humid hike. We leapt off small waterfalls between the pools, let the fish nibble at our toes, and took countless photos because every angle was stunning. I even spotted a few locals picnicking – Semuc is remote, but Guatemalans themselves trek here to enjoy their natural treasure.
It amazed me that such an incredible day – exploring caves by candlelight, tubing a jungle river, and swimming in dream-like pools – cost me under $30 total. Back at the hostel that evening, a fellow backpacker broke out a guitar, and we all sang and laughed under the stars.
There was nowhere else to go, nothing to spend money on – just good company and nature’s sounds. In the absence of Wi-Fi, someone joked, the beer flows cheaper (indeed, the tiny hostel bar sold local Brahva beers for Q15 each, so a couple cold ones didn’t set us back much).
If you’re truly pinching pennies, you can visit Semuc without a tour: catch a ride on a pickup truck from Lanquín for a few quetzales, pay the park entry and explore on your own. The cave tour and tubing can also be paid on the spot (locals at the cave charge a small fee).
But I found the package convenient and still low-cost. One tip: bring a flashlight/headlamp (in case your candle in the cave goes out), water shoes (the rocks can be sharp), and small bills for random expenses.
Also, consider spending at least two nights in the Lanquín/Semuc area due to the long travel times – that way you’re not rushed and you can enjoy a slow morning by the river or a hike to a nearby waterfall for free on the second day.
Semuc Champey was a highlight of Guatemala for me, embodying the spirit of adventure that draws backpackers here. It felt wild and far-off, yet it was completely accessible on a tight budget.
As I left the jungle, bumping along in a pickup back towards civilization with red mud on my boots and a broad smile on my face, I knew the next leg of my journey would be very different: I was headed north to uncover ancient Maya secrets amid the ruins of Tikal.
Tikal and the Petén
Exploring Tikal National Park, the ruined Maya city deep in the rainforests of Petén, was the grand finale of my Guatemalan adventure – and it was worth every penny (or rather, quetzal).
Tikal can be done on a backpacker budget with a bit of planning. I traveled to Tikal’s vicinity by overnight bus from Lanquín to Flores, the small island town on Lake Petén Itzá which serves as the base for Tikal visits.
The overnight bus saved me a night’s accommodation cost and was fairly comfortable. Arriving in Flores at dawn, I was greeted by pastel colonial buildings and quiet cobbled streets – Flores is charming and many travelers actually end up lingering here.
I checked into Los Amigos Hostel, the budget hub in town, for about Q85 ($11) in a dorm with fans (Petén is hot and humid!). Los Amigos had a cool jungle vibe and an onsite café serving cheap breakfast, so it was a great place to recharge.
To visit Tikal, you have a few budget options: take a public bus or colectivo to the park (about Q30 each way, but departures are infrequent), or join a sunrise/sunset tour minibus (around Q100–Q150 for transport and guide, not including entry).
I opted for a sunrise tour: I splurged a bit, paying about Q125 for the shuttle and guide that picked me up at 3:30 AM from my hostel, plus the park entry fee of 150 GTQ (about $20) for a day ticket . (Sunrise in Tikal requires a special ticket that you must buy the day before in Flores or Santa Elena’s bank, costing a bit extra, but we arranged everything through the hostel to keep it simple).
Yes, waking up at 3 AM was rough, but soon I was dozing in the minibus and then hiking in the pre-dawn darkness through the ruins with howler monkeys roaring in the canopy above – an eerie, primal sound like something out of Jurassic Park.
We climbed Temple IV in near-darkness and sat atop it in silence as the sky slowly brightened. The sun didn’t so much rise as gradually reveal itself – a misty morning, typical in the rainy season, meant the sunlight filtered in slowly, unveiling the tops of Temples I, II, and III poking above the jungle sea.
The moment when the howler monkeys and birds erupted into a dawn chorus while these ancient pyramids materialized through the fog was spiritual. I felt connected to history and nature in a profound way. Tikal is often called one of the most mesmerizing Maya sites, and I absolutely agree.
We spent hours with our guide wandering the vast city complex – from the Central Acropolis plazas to the twin pyramid complexes and out to less-restored temples swallowed by vines. Because we started so early, we had the site practically to ourselves for the first few hours, which made it easy to imagine it as it once was.
By mid-morning, the tour ended and many people headed back. But here’s a budget tip: the Tikal entry ticket is valid for the day (and if you enter after 3 PM, it’s valid for the next day too). I packed a lunch (to avoid pricey snacks inside) and stayed the whole day to explore on my own after the tour. I even took a nap in the shade of a giant ceiba tree, serenaded by parrots.
There’s something magical about taking it slow in Tikal – in the afternoon, most tour groups leave, and I had quiet moments where I could climb Temple V and sit in solitude, or watch spider monkeys swing overhead.
If you have your own hammock or tent, you can camp at the park campground for a small fee, or stay at one of the budget lodges just outside the park gate (like Jungle Lodge Tikal has hammocks for rent). Camping under the stars in Tikal and hearing the wildlife at midnight is an experience I heard was amazing (next time I’d try that!).
After a full day in Tikal, I caught a cheap colectivo back to Flores in the late afternoon (Q35). That evening, to celebrate my journey’s end, a group of us from the hostel went out to the Flores malecón (waterfront) where food stalls pop up at night.
We feasted on grilled corn, empanadas, and fresh Micheladas (beer with lime and salt) for a pittance, and reminisced about our favorite moments in Guatemala. My share of the street food dinner was maybe Q50, and it felt like a king’s banquet by the lake under the stars.
Flores itself is a pleasant place to wander and very budget-friendly. The island is small – you can stroll the perimeter in 15 minutes. I spent my last day there just relaxing by the lake, swimming (free and refreshing!), and even rented a kayak with a friend for Q20 each to paddle to a rope swing across the bay.
We also took a Q5 ferry to San Miguel village on the opposite shore to hike to El Mirador del Rey Canek, a viewpoint hill that gave a sweeping look over Flores and the lake (again, completely free to do aside from the short boat ride).
Before leaving Petén, we decided to check out another nearby ruin called Yaxhá – less famous than Tikal but reputed to be beautiful, set by a lake. Because we had a group of four, we split a private taxi (Q400 total, so Q100 each round trip) to Yaxhá and back, which was cheaper than a tour and let us set our own schedule.
Admission to Yaxhá is 80 GTQ , and we practically had the ruins to ourselves. We climbed a temple overlooking the green lagoon at sunset and it was pure magic – like a mini-Tikal but with zero crowds. This spontaneous side trip was a testament that even as my trip was winding down, Guatemala kept delivering affordable wonders.
When to Go: Weather and Seasons on a Budget
One thing I appreciated about Guatemala is that it’s a year-round destination – you can visit any time and have a great trip, as long as you pack appropriately and adjust to the seasons.
The country mainly has two seasons: dry season (roughly November through April) and rainy season (May through October). I experienced both while traveling (I was there around April into May, bridging the transition), and each has its perks for a budget traveler.
The dry season is considered the peak tourist season because of the reliably sunny weather. Clear blue skies mean spectacular volcano views and easier transportation (no rain washouts to worry about). If you’re into hiking volcanoes like Acatenango or doing lots of outdoor excursions, this season is ideal.
However, it’s also when prices can be a bit higher and popular hostels more crowded. During Christmas, New Year’s, or Easter (Semana Santa), the tourist hubs get booked up. I noticed in late December some hostel prices in Antigua and Atitlán crept up a few dollars due to demand. That said, even in peak times, Guatemala remained quite affordable compared to, say, Costa Rica or Mexico’s beach destinations in high season.
If traveling in dry season, it’s wise to reserve accommodation in advance for places like Antigua (especially during Easter’s famous processions) and to expect more travelers on shuttles (sometimes needing early booking). But you’ll enjoy picture-perfect weather – I recall in April thinking how intense the sun was in the afternoons around the lake (wear sunscreen, folks!), yet nights in the highlands were pleasantly cool.
The rainy season, on the other hand, is what many call the “Green Season.” Yes, it rains – generally a short downpour in the afternoon or evening, rather than all-day rain. The landscape turns lush green and vibrant. I actually timed some of my trip to hit the early rainy season (May-June) intentionally, because I’d heard that traveling in rainy season can be more affordable and still quite pleasant .
Indeed, I found fewer crowds and sometimes lower rates. In May, my hostel in San Pedro had a “rainy season special” discount on private rooms. Buses and shuttles were less crowded, and I often had more bargaining power for tours or souvenirs since vendors were eager to make sales during the slower period.
Culturally, I also got to see the corn planting season in the highlands – a time of year when communities have traditional ceremonies (I witnessed one on Atitlán, purely by luck, asking a local what the small village festival was about – it was a Mayan ritual for the first sowing of corn, something I might have missed in dry season).
Traveling in the rainy season does require some flexibility and gear. I always carried a light rain jacket or poncho in my daypack. When those sudden downpours hit, I’d duck into a café or under a shop awning and wait it out, which was actually a nice forced break to sip coffee.
Roads can get muddy or occasionally a landslide might delay a bus, but I personally didn’t encounter major issues. The key is to start your activities early each day – most mornings were clear even in wet months, and the rain often rolled in around 2-4 PM.
For example, on my Semuc Champey day, clouds gathered and gave us a drizzle late afternoon, but we had already enjoyed the pools by then. Similarly, my volcano hike in Xela started at 5 AM and we were down before the typical afternoon showers.
Temperature-wise, Guatemala’s climate varies by altitude more than by season. The highlands (Antigua, Xela, Atitlán) are mild to chilly at night year-round. I was grateful for my fleece jacket in Xela’s evenings (it can drop below 10°C/50°F at night even in summer).
Meanwhile, the lowlands (Flores, Tikal, Rio Dulce) are warm and steamy, and especially humid in rainy season. Air conditioning is rare in budget stays, so a fan was my best friend in Petén’s muggy nights. I actually slept in a hammock one night at Tikal (with a mosquito net) which was cooler than a stuffy room.
One cool thing about year-round travel in Guatemala: there’s always something going on. Festivals and markets happen all year.
If you go in rainy season, you might catch the Fiesta Julias in Xela (July annual fair) or Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) in November with its famous giant kite festival in Sumpango – cultural experiences that don’t cost much to enjoy.
And because it’s not a country focused on beach tourism (no big resort season fluctuations), even “off-season” feels lively enough.
In summary, I’d say: if you want guaranteed sun and don’t mind a few extra travelers around, go in dry season. If you want lusher landscapes, a more laid-back vibe, and potential savings (and you pack a raincoat), the rainy season is actually wonderful. I personally loved that I got to see waterfalls and forests in full flow and bloom.
As Anywhere.com’s travel guide wisely notes, even in the rainy season “it’s still quite pleasant, and can be more affordable” – which I found absolutely true. Guatemala truly is an all-seasons destination. Just tailor your activities a bit (maybe more cultural indoor stuff on heavy rain days, and outdoor hikes in the mornings) and you’ll be fine.
More Budget-Friendly Gems
My journey focused on some of Guatemala’s headline destinations, but one thing I realized is that the entire country is open for budget exploration. If you have time, there are other regions worth checking out without stretching your wallet.
For instance, Livingston on the Caribbean coast offers a completely different cultural experience with the Garífuna Afro-Caribbean community – you can take a scenic boat ride down the Río Dulce (for about Q125, or $15) through a gorge of jungle cliffs to reach this laid-back town. In Livingston, you can eat fresh coconut tapado soup and listen to Garífuna drums on the beach, all for the cost of a simple guesthouse (rooms there start around $10).
Similarly, Rio Dulce town has a backpacker scene on the river; I stayed a night in a waterfront hostel there (dorm bed $8) where you can kayak through mangroves for free and watch howler monkeys at dusk.
On the Pacific coast, Guatemala has surfing spots like El Paredón and the black sand beaches of Monterrico. These aren’t as developed as say Costa Rica’s beaches (which I actually loved, it felt more authentic). In El Paredón, a surf lesson with board rental was around $20 – much cheaper than typical surf camps elsewhere – and the hostels there run $10–15/night.
You could swing in a hammock by day, join a bonfire by night, and enjoy the ocean without resort prices. Monterrico has a sea turtle conservation project where for a small donation you can help release baby turtles into the ocean at certain times of year – a priceless experience for just a few quetzales.
Up in Verapaz beyond Semuc, there are other nature parks like Biotopo del Quetzal (entry fee under $5) where if you’re lucky (and patient) you might spot the elusive quetzal bird among cloud forests. And for archaeology buffs, sites like Quiriguá (with towering Maya stelae, entry ~Q80 ) or the remote El Mirador (a several-day trek) beckon – though El Mirador requires a guided trek that can be pricey, unless you’re an ultra-budget adventurer willing to join a group and rough it.
The point is, Guatemala rewards those who explore widely, and it can almost always be done on a budget. Public transportation reaches most areas (even if slowly), and small towns have comedor food and local guesthouses at local prices.
I met travelers who spent a month in Guatemala going to lesser-known places like Nebaj in the Ixil Triangle or the cobblestoned town of Cobán, and they reported spending even less than in the tourist trail, since everything was local-priced and there were no “tourist activity” costs.
Adiós with Memories Aplenty
As my time in Guatemala came to an end, I found myself reflecting on how rich this trip had been – rich in experiences, culture, and natural beauty – yet how little I had spent relative to the adventures I was taking home.
Backpacking Guatemala on a budget turned out not to be a challenge at all, but rather the ideal way to experience the country. By traveling simply – on chicken buses and shared shuttles, by staying in hostels and family homes, by eating where locals eat and partaking in free or low-cost activities – I felt I got closer to the soul of Guatemala than I would have from cushy hotels or luxury tours.
My entire daily budget often sat around the $30–$40 range (and could have been less if I had really pinched pennies), and for that I was volcano boarding, jungle trekking, market haggling, and ruin exploring to my heart’s content.
Guatemala taught me the joy of slow travel: sitting on a dock watching a sunset rather than rushing to the next sight, chatting with a market vendor about her weaving instead of buying the first souvenir I saw, and taking those extra days in one spot to absorb the rhythm of local life.
The friendliness of Guatemalans made the journey special – despite my basic Spanish, I was often greeted with warmth and helped along the way, proving that hospitality is not tied to how fancy a place is. Even in the most humble markets or chicken-bus stops, people went out of their way to ensure I caught the right bus or tasted a certain fruit.
For any budget-conscious traveler dreaming of vibrant landscapes and cultures, Guatemala offers so much: Antigua’s historical charm, the serenity of Lake Atitlán’s villages, the living indigenous culture in the highlands of Xela and Chichi, the adrenaline of jungle adventures at Semuc Champey, and the awe of Maya history at Tikal.
And all of it is accessible without deep pockets. The key is to embrace the local ways of travel and be open to a bit of unpredictability – which, in my opinion, is where the magic truly happens.
So pack your bag (keep it light!), brush up on a few Spanish phrases, and get ready to haggle in the market, hike up a volcano, and hitch a ride in the back of a pickup. Guatemala awaits, and you don’t need a luxury budget – just a sense of adventure and an open heart. I left with countless stories and only a modest dent in my bank account, which is about the best outcome any backpacker could hope for.
¡Hasta luego, Guatemala! – I’ll definitely be back, drawn by the memories of turquoise pools, volcanic sunrises, and the friends met along the way, all proof that the best things in travel – much like the best things in life – are indeed affordable, if not free.