The speedboat’s spray glitters in the sun as we skim across electric-blue waters toward Fihalhohi Island Resort. Ahead lies a tiny circle of green and white sand that will be our home for the next few days, and behind us, the skyline of Malé fades, along with thoughts of work and worry.
My husband and I are honeymooners in search of an authentic Maldivian paradise, the kind we’ve dreamed about since flipping through travel magazines.
But as our boat docks at Fihalhohi’s simple wooden jetty, we wonder: In a Maldives now exploding with ultra-luxury resorts (some complete with underwater restaurants and spas, treehouse bars, and even solar-powered islands), can this 40-year-old island retreat still hold its own?
Stepping onto Fihalhohi’s powder-soft beach feels like stepping back in time. There are no glass-floor spas or butlers waiting with champagne but just a warm smile from a staff member who greets us like old friends.
The island is small and lush, ringed by swaying palms and a turquoise lagoon. Immediately, a sense of tranquility washes over us. In the distance, a cluster of thatched-roof water bungalows perched on stilts hints at the resort’s classic charm, a world apart from the flashy overwater palaces we saw online.
This is the Maldives of a bygone era: intimate, unpretentious, and undeniably romantic in its simplicity.
Maldives’ Luxury Boom and the “Old Guard”
Once a remote haven for intrepid honeymooners, the Maldives today is synonymous with over-the-top luxury. In the past decade, new resorts have popped up like tropical mushrooms, each vying to outdo the last in extravagance.
It’s no longer enough to offer an overwater bungalow; now we have resorts with spas suspended over lagoons (complete with glass floors to watch sea turtles during your massage), restaurants submerged under the sea, personal infinity pools at every villa, and world-class chefs crafting bespoke dining experiences.
Big-name hotel brands and design-forward boutiques are in an arms race of indulgence, adding champagne on arrival, pillow menus, and private butlers to their list of standard amenities.
Importantly, many of these new entrants also tout serious eco-credentials—solar farms, coral restoration projects, and resident marine biologists—highlighting a commitment to sustainability alongside sybaritic luxury.
Amid this luxury boom, the “old guard” resorts like Fihalhohi face unprecedented competition. Fihalhohi Island Resort opened in 1981, making it one of the Maldives’ oldest continually operating island hotels.
For decades, it was a dream destination for travelers seeking the classic Maldives experience: a tiny coral island with pristine beaches, a vibrant house reef, and rustic thatched-roof villas. But can a resort established over 40 years ago keep up with an era of $3,000-a-night pool villas and underwater wine cellars?
To answer that, we need to look at what Fihalhohi offers in comparison to the newer ultra-luxury properties, across the factors that matter most to travelers (and especially to honeymooners): pricing, service quality, amenities, environmental sustainability, and the all-important guest experience.
As I soon discovered during my stay, Fihalhohi’s appeal is different by design – and it just might fill a niche that the glitziest resorts can’t provide.
First Impressions
On arriving at Fihalhohi, the first thing we notice is the sense of scale: the entire island is walkable in 20 minutes. There are no overwater golf courses or fleets of buggies shuttling guests around (you can leave your high heels at home – sand-between-toes is the unofficial dress code here).
Instead, narrow sand paths tunnel through jungle greenery, and we pass under mature palm trees that have likely stood since before the resort was built. The atmosphere feels intimate and low-key. A gentle breeze carries the sound of birds and the distant laughter of guests snorkeling just offshore.
Fihalhohi immediately distinguishes itself from the “corporate” polish of many new resorts. It’s privately owned and has a homey, independent vibe – a bit like a beloved beach lodge that’s grown up with its guests. Staff members aren’t in stiff uniforms; instead, they exude a genuine warmth, swapping stories with guests at the beach bar.
We’re told many staff have been here for years, even decades, and it shows in their pride and easy hospitality. One TripAdvisor reviewer aptly called Fihalhohi “an amazing privately owned island, a gem of a find… calmness, relaxation and great service”, which sums up that first impression of authenticity and welcome.
Walking to our villa, we notice the infrastructure is modest. The central area has a thatched-roof reception, an open-air restaurant, and a couple of bars by the water. There’s a small dive center and gift shop. It’s all well-kept but without the wow-factor architecture of newer five-star resorts.
Our overwater bungalow itself is one of only 12 built in 2006 (a later addition to keep up with trends). Inside, the room is spacious and spotlessly clean, with wood-paneled decor that feels more traditionally Maldivian than trendy. The furnishings are a bit dated—think rattan chairs and printed bed runners—and lack some high-tech touches (no giant flat-screen or iPad controls here).
A ceiling fan whirs gently above a comfortable king bed, and large windows frame the turquoise lagoon. The bathroom, while not the marble extravaganza of a modern 6-star resort, surprises us with a Maldivian twist: it opens onto a semi-outdoor deck, so you can literally see and smell the ocean while you shower.
We note that some fixtures have the patina of age, but everything functions well, and the air-conditioning quickly cools the tropical heat. Guest feedback often mentions that rooms could benefit from an update, yet remain comfortable, with effective AC and daily cleaning. That aligns with our experience – Fihalhohi’s accommodations aren’t shiny new, but they are cozy, clean, and utterly peaceful.
Importantly, nothing feels “old” where it truly counts: the island’s natural beauty. Fihalhohi’s beach is storybook perfect – fine white sand (cool underfoot) encircling the whole island, shelving into a crystal-clear lagoon. Just beyond, we can see the dark blue outline of a house reef hugging the island, promising excellent snorkeling (more on that later).
As sunset approaches on our first day, we plant ourselves on the western beach, toes in the sand, and watch the sky turn tangerine. We’re virtually alone except for another couple and a hermit crab skittering by.
In this moment, surrounded by raw beauty and silence, Fihalhohi already feels like it’s offering something timeless that many glitzy resorts might lack: a chance to truly disconnect and savor the simple romance of a Maldivian island at its most natural.
Luxury for Less
One of Fihalhohi’s undeniable advantages in the Maldives market is pricing. In a destination known for eye-watering rates, Fihalhohi is positioned as a value-oriented resort – a fact that honeymooners on a budget will appreciate.
Room rates here are a fraction of the cost of the Maldives’ newer ultra-luxury properties. Depending on the season and room type, you might pay roughly $300–$500 per night at Fihalhohi for a water villa on a half-board meal plan (and less for a beach bungalow).
Compare that to the likes of a Soneva Jani, a Waldorf Astoria, or a Patina Maldives, where villas easily run $1,500 to $3,000+ per night in high season – and that often doesn’t include meals!
The ultra-luxury segment in the Maldives can even exceed $6,000 a night for the most exclusive pool villas and private islands. Simply put, Fihalhohi offers an experience of the Maldives without demanding a second mortgage, and that remains one of its strongest selling points.
Value, of course, isn’t just about the sticker price – it’s what you get for it. Here, Fihalhohi competes by offering solid inclusions and avoiding some nickel-and-dime pitfalls. All guests receive a free breakfast buffet as part of the rate, and you can opt for full-board or all-inclusive packages that cover all meals (and even some basic alcoholic drinks).
We chose the all-inclusive option, which, while not as lavish as at a Sandals or a mega-resort, meant we never worried about the cost of that extra cocktail or afternoon snack.
The main Palm Grove restaurant serves generous buffets of international and Maldivian cuisine, and we were never bored with the selections – one night might feature a Maldivian curry spread, another an Italian pasta station.
Guest reviews frequently praise the food quality and variety (especially the breakfast omelette station and fresh seafood). Indeed, we savored grilled reef fish and creamy curries, and found the themed dinner nights charming.
Admittedly, the dining is buffet-style rather than à la carte fine dining; this is one area where Fihalhohi shows its four-star nature. Newer luxury resorts often boast multiple specialty restaurants – Japanese teppanyaki, modern European, even underwater dining – with celebrity chefs.
Fihalhohi can’t compete on that front; it has one main restaurant and a couple of casual bars. However, what it does, it does well. We notice plenty of honeymooners like us enjoying private candlelit dinners on the beach (a service the resort offers for special occasions, complete with a dedicated server and custom menu). The setting – under the stars, waves lapping nearby – rivals any Michelin-starred meal in terms of romance.
Another aspect of value: excursions and activities. Fihalhohi includes some activities in packages (like a snorkeling tour or a sunset fishing trip) or offers them at reasonable rates, whereas top-tier resorts might charge a premium for every outing.
We joined a dolphin-watching cruise one evening for about $40 each; watching a pod of wild spinner dolphins leap against the orange sky was worth ten times that. Kayaks and snorkeling gear were available free for all-inclusive guests, allowing us to explore without worrying about hourly fees.
Guest feedback underscores that many feel Fihalhohi delivers excellent bang-for-buck, giving a taste of the Maldives’ beauty and hospitality “without the premium pricing of newer resorts”.
In fact, the resort consistently maintains strong ratings on review platforms – about 4.5/5 on TripAdvisor (based on over 2,000 reviews) and 8.7/10 on Booking.com, which is on par with some pricier properties.
This indicates that most guests (ourselves included) feel they got their money’s worth or more. For honeymooners weighing a splurge on a big-name resort versus a more budget-friendly option, Fihalhohi proves that you can have an idyllic, romantic Maldives experience without an eye-popping bill – if you’re willing to trade a bit of modern glitz for old-fashioned charm.
Service and Amenities
In the realm of service quality, Fihalhohi shines with a very personal, down-to-earth approach. From day one, we were struck by how genuinely friendly and attentive the staff were. At check-in, the receptionist greeted us with “Welcome home,” and by the next morning most staff we encountered remembered our names.
Throughout our stay, whether it was the bartender crafting a pretty coconut cocktail or the room attendant decorating our bed with flowers for our honeymoon, we felt a sense of family-like hospitality. Many guests similarly praise the staff’s warmth, often mentioning specific employees who went above and beyond.
One afternoon, my husband mentioned in passing to a gardener that he loved coconuts – an hour later, a fresh-cut coconut was delivered to our door, gratis. These are the small touches that stick with you.
Now, contrast this with the service at an ultra-luxury resort. At places like the Ritz-Carlton or Four Seasons, service is choreographed to be flawless – private butlers, staff who anticipate your needs before you even utter them, and an almost invisible efficiency.
It’s highly professional and, no doubt, indulgent. But one could argue it lacks the personal quirkiness that a smaller, traditional resort offers. At Fihalhohi, the service felt more organic and relaxed, which suited the island’s casual vibe perfectly.
We didn’t have a private butler, but we had Salahudin and Ali at the restaurant joking with us each day and remembering our favorite breakfast orders. We didn’t have a sommelier, but the bartender at Blue Lagoon Bar learned my cocktail preferences by the second night.
For some honeymooners, this kind of heartfelt service can matter more than being waited on hand-and-foot in a more formal way.
In terms of amenities, Fihalhohi provides all the essentials of a comfortable stay, though without the extravagant extras found elsewhere. There is a spa on-site – the Huvandhumaa Spa – where we treated ourselves to a couples’ massage in a bungalow amid tropical gardens.
The spa menu is not huge (mostly massages, facials, and basics), but our Thai massage was excellent and reasonably priced. While new resorts flaunt elaborate wellness centers – think glass-floored spa pavilions over the water, ice rooms, visiting holistic healers – Fihalhohi’s spa is simple and serene, focusing on just giving a good massage.
We found it charming that the spa therapists also performed a traditional bodu beru drum dance one evening as entertainment, doubling as cultural ambassadors. Entertainment is generally low-key: a weekly live music night by local musicians, a staff vs. guests volleyball match at sunset, and a modest indoor games area (we spotted a pool table and some board games).
If you’re expecting nightclubs or big productions, you won’t find those here – and indeed some guests note they’d like a bit more evening entertainment. But for us, stargazing on the beach and listening to the gentle ocean was entertainment enough.
One amenity where Fihalhohi really punches above its weight is the house reef and dive center. The resort’s PADI dive center is professionally run, offering everything from beginner courses to advanced dives on famous sites in South Malé Atoll. As avid snorkelers, we were thrilled with the house reef that encircles the island.
Just a few fin-kicks from shore, we found ourselves floating over coral gardens busy with colorful fish. We spotted reef sharks, rays, and even a sea turtle munching on seagrass. Snorkeling directly from our water villa’s ladder at dawn, we had a front-row seat to parrotfish breakfast time.
This kind of easy access to marine life is something even some fancy resorts can’t offer (especially those built on lagoons without natural reefs). Many guests highlight Fihalhohi’s reef as a standout feature, calling the snorkeling and diving experiences exceptional.
We agree – it was certainly a highlight of our stay. For couples who bond over underwater adventures, Fihalhohi might actually outdo glitzier resorts that have to boat you elsewhere for good snorkeling.
Other facilities include a basic 24-hour gym (we peeked in – a few treadmills, bikes, and weights; nothing fancy, and honestly we never used it), and some water sports like kayaking, windsurfing, and catamaran sailing. Motorized sports (jet skis, etc.) were available for a fee. It’s a fairly standard roster for a Maldives resort.
What’s missing? Well, there’s no underwater restaurant, no kids’ club (Fihalhohi does welcome families, but it doesn’t specifically cater to children with elaborate facilities), and no uber-luxe perks like helicopter transfers or private plunge pools. If your idea of paradise includes those trappings, Fihalhohi might feel too simple.
The resort itself acknowledges that its room amenities are relatively basic and the more affordable room categories are in duplex structures or semi-detached villas. For instance, our minibar had drinks but they weren’t included in the room price (we stuck to the all-inclusive beverages at the bar to avoid extra charges).
And while the water villa was lovely, there are only 12 of them, so they can book up fast in high season. Honeymooners set on an overwater stay might need to plan well in advance or opt for a beach villa if water villas are sold out.
In summary, Fihalhohi’s service and amenities provide comfort, authenticity, and the basics done right, but lack the opulence and variety of high-end newcomers. Whether that’s a deal-breaker depends on what you want from your honeymoon.
If you dream of a personal plunge pool and 10 restaurant choices, Fihalhohi isn’t going to tick those boxes. But if you value feeling at home on an island, with staff who genuinely care and a gorgeous reef at your doorstep, Fihalhohi’s offering is hard to beat for the price.
Adapting an Older Resort to New Values
In today’s travel world, luxury isn’t just about thread count – it’s also about sustainability and eco-credentials. Many of the Maldives’ newest resorts put a big emphasis on being environmentally friendly (some, like Kudadoo, are fully solar powered; others run marine biology programs).
This raises the question: how does an older resort like Fihalhohi measure up in the era of eco-conscious tourism?
Fihalhohi was built in a time when sustainability wasn’t the buzzword it is now. However, we were pleased to learn that the resort is making strides to go green and protect its beautiful surroundings.
A manager explained to us that they have an on-island desalination plant to produce fresh water (reducing the need to import bottled water) and have recently introduced refillable water stations and glass bottles for guests. In our villa, we indeed found reusable glass carafes of water that housekeeping replenished, meaning fewer plastic bottles.
They also use biodegradable straws and amenities where possible, and we noticed recycling bins for cans and plastic in the staff areas during a casual behind-the-scenes tour. The resort has switched to energy-efficient lighting and optimized generator use to cut down on fuel consumption.
These might sound like small measures compared to the grand conservation labs of some resorts, but it’s heartening to see an established property adopting newer sustainability practices.
As one travel industry commentary noted, there’s a “growing awareness within Maldivian tourism of balancing luxury with environmental responsibility”, and Fihalhohi seems to be embracing that balance.
That said, Fihalhohi has faced some criticism in the past on environmental grounds. In our pre-trip research, we stumbled on a travel vlogger’s video dramatically dubbing Fihalhohi “the least eco-friendly resort in the Maldives” due to sightings of disposable plastics and lack of visible green initiatives.
During our stay, we kept an eye out for such issues. We did observe that the resort still offers some drinks in plastic bottles (especially imported beverages) and uses motorboats for transfers (as do all resorts, since alternatives are limited).
And unlike certain high-end resorts, Fihalhohi doesn’t have on-site marine biologists doing coral propagation – though they do encourage guests not to step on coral and we saw signs about protecting turtles.
The house reef looked healthy to our eyes, with live corals and abundant fish, which suggests the resort has not significantly harmed its immediate marine environment. In fact, the reef is one of Fihalhohi’s treasures and presumably a strong incentive for the team to protect it.
We learned that Fihalhohi participates in reef clean-up programs periodically (guests can join snorkel clean-ups to pick up any trash that washes in on currents).
One area where Fihalhohi could improve is perhaps in communicating its sustainability efforts more openly to guests. While newer resorts often advertise their eco-friendly projects as part of the experience, at Fihalhohi the initiatives were more behind-the-scenes.
It wasn’t until I chatted with staff that I learned about the desalination plant or the fact that many palm trees on the island predate the resort and have been carefully preserved in the building layout.
The resort’s philosophy has long been to “preserve the natural environment while providing comfortable stays”, and that ethos is visible in how green and unspoiled the island feels.
There are no high-rises or concrete jungles here – accommodations are nestled among the foliage, and paths are sandy instead of paved. At night, they keep lighting minimal in some areas to avoid disturbing wildlife (and to let guests enjoy the stars).
For honeymooners particularly, sustainability might or might not be a deciding factor. Some couples are keen to support eco-friendly resorts, while others might prioritize luxury or convenience.
If you’re in the former group, you’ll be glad to know Fihalhohi is nominated for a 2024 Travel Trade Maldives “Best Dive Resort” award, partly reflecting its marine appeal, and it’s trying to do its part in the sustainability movement.
It may not be a poster child for ecotourism just yet, but the resort’s management recognizes that protecting its reef and reducing waste are key to remaining competitive and responsible in the long run.
In short, Fihalhohi is catching up with the eco-trends – perhaps a bit quietly – and for many visitors, the sheer natural beauty and rustic simplicity of the island already align with the idea that true luxury can mean enjoying nature responsibly rather than altering it.
The Honeymoon Experience
Ultimately, for our target readers (you, dear honeymoon planners), the question comes down to the experience: romance, memories, and that special feeling of being in paradise with your beloved.
Does Fihalhohi deliver on that ineffable honeymoon magic in a way that stands up to, or even surpasses, the ultra-luxe resorts?
From our personal experience and observing other couples on the island, Fihalhohi offers a deeply romantic, “castaway chic” atmosphere that is hard to replicate in larger, posher resorts. There’s something enchanting about the understated nature of the place.
We spent our days doing simple but memorable things: snorkeling side by side through coral gardens pointing out clownfish, napping in a hammock under palm fronds, and taking long walks around the island at sunset where it often felt like we had the whole sandbank to ourselves.
One evening, we carried a bottle of wine to the beach and had our own private stargazing party, lying on a blanket and watching shooting stars streak across the sky. The island is so small and safe that we felt completely comfortable and undisturbed – a true Robinson Crusoe-meets-honeymoon vibe that’s increasingly rare.
In contrast, the ultra-luxury resorts orchestrate romance in grand ways: private infinity pools, sunset yacht cruises, dining on a sandbank with a personal chef, outdoor cinema under the stars, you name it. Those experiences can be incredible, no doubt.
But they can also feel, well, a bit scripted. At Fihalhohi, the romance felt more organic. We made our own adventures, like sneaking out for a midnight swim in the warm lagoon (don’t worry, the staff knew and kept watch from afar for safety).
On our last night, we did indulge in the resort’s offered candlelit beach dinner, and while it was a paid extra, it was worth every penny: a table for two on the sand, torches planted in the sand casting a flicker of light, the chef grilling fresh lobster and steak just for us, and our server discreetly topping our glasses.
We might not have had a villa with a slide into the ocean or a personal butler, but in that moment we had everything we wanted.
Fihalhohi also caters to honeymooners with a few special perks. We were given a surprise honeymoon cake on arrival (a lovely touch) and a decorated bed. The resort offers honeymoon discounts at certain times of year, making it even more enticing for newlyweds watching their budget.
The seclusion of the water villas (each one separated for privacy) was another plus – we never heard our neighbors and felt like we had our own little slice of the ocean. If you prefer a beach bungalow, those too are just steps from the water and often hidden behind greenery, giving a sense of being in your own beach house.
Perhaps one romantic aspect money can’t buy is the sense of history and soul on this island. Fihalhohi has been hosting lovers and dreamers for four decades, and you feel part of that continuum. One sunset we met a couple in their 50s who told us they honeymooned here 25 years ago and were back for an anniversary — they said the island was “just as magical as the first time, only with better cocktails now.”
It struck me that Fihalhohi fosters loyalty and nostalgia in a way ultra-modern resorts might not; it becomes “your island” that you want to return to, maybe even with your kids someday.
However, let’s be balanced: a certain type of honeymooner might find Fihalhohi lacking. If your vision of a once-in-a-lifetime honeymoon is pure sybaritic luxury and glamorous amenities, you may lean toward the newer resorts. For instance, the privacy of having your own pool or the indulgence of an overwater spa treatment – those are not available here.
Some couples enjoy a buzz of activity and lavish entertainment (say, nightclubs or marine life presentations); at Fihalhohi, nightlife is virtually nil beyond a moonlit stroll or a quiet drink. And while we loved the food, foodies who crave Michelin-star gastronomy might not be wowed by buffets every night.
It’s worth noting that “those seeking ultra-modern facilities or the prestige of newer branded resorts might find other properties more aligned with their preferences,” as one detailed review summary delicately put it. In plain terms: if you want bragging rights about staying at the latest celebrity-endorsed resort, Fihalhohi isn’t that. It’s unpretentious and proud of it.
Conclusion
So, can Fihalhohi Island Resort still compete with the Maldives’ luxury boom? The answer is a qualified yes, it competes, not by imitating the ultra-luxury model, but by offering a unique alternative to it.
In an era where many high-end resorts can feel interchangeable in their perfection, Fihalhohi stands out by staying true to a classic, authentic Maldivian ethos.
As a travel writer (and a smitten newlywed), I’d argue that this resort occupies a valuable niche: it’s a place for travelers who care more about natural beauty, intimacy, and value than splashy opulence.
Fihalhohi’s strengths are clear. It has a gorgeous house reef, stunning beaches, and a serene atmosphere — core ingredients for any Maldives holiday.
It boasts four decades of hospitality experience, resulting in top-notch, heartfelt service that leaves guests feeling like family. It delivers a quality experience at a price point that makes the Maldives accessible to more people, including young honeymooners who might otherwise think these islands are out of reach.
And it does all this while maintaining a sense of place – you never forget you are in the Maldives here, immersed in the swaying palms, vibrant marine life, and local touches that haven’t been engineered away.
For honeymooners trying to decide between “old vs new” Maldives, the choice ultimately comes down to personal priorities. If you seek a genuine, laid-back island experience – the kind where luxury is measured in sunsets and shoals of fish rather than thread count – then Fihalhohi is a gem. I
It’s a place where you can walk barefoot from your room to breakfast, spend hours floating together in a warm lagoon, and feel the rest of the world slip away. As one recent guest aptly said, “Fihalhohi isn’t trying to be something it’s not. It’s simply the Maldives as you’ve always imagined it – beautiful, peaceful, and unforgettable.” For many, including us, that simplicity is the ultimate luxury.
