I arrived on Koh Rong with sand already between my toes and a grin of anticipation. The rickety ferry had barely nudged into the wooden pier before I had to wade ashore knee-deep in warm surf, backpack hoisted overhead.
There was no welcome committee, no taxis or porters in sight, just a few locals unloading crates of vegetables and bottled water onto a moto-cart. Instantly, I understood why many travelers adore this Cambodian island and why some others catch the next boat back.
“This island isn’t for everyone. It’s rustic, there’s no nightlife to speak of, and you’ll need to embrace the ‘go with the flow’ mentality.”
For those of us craving a break from “the bustle of the city”, though, Koh Rong’s remoteness is exactly its charm.
Rustic Charm at the Edge of Cambodia
Koh Rong remains a largely untamed paradise – a rustic idyll as one recent visitor described it. Despite a growing handful of guesthouses and beach bungalows, the island is “not over-developed and retains much of its original charm”, with “small roads, friendly locals and [a feeling] like you are far away from the rest of the world.”
Indeed, there are only a few tiny villages scattered around Koh Rong’s 78 km² area. The main settlement, Koh Touch (also spelled Koh Tui), is little more than a sandy footpath lined with wooden shacks and modest eateries.
Here you’ll find a generator-powered cluster of beach bars and dive shops, but even this “fishing village…back from the shoreline” quickly “develops into thick, steep jungle” just minutes inland.
There are no real highways – until recently, the only way to reach most of the island’s 23 beaches was by boat or a sweaty hike through the rainforest. (A rough road now roughly circles the island, but don’t expect speedy transit.)
Island life still moves at a slow, sun-drenched pace dictated by nature and necessity.
“lazy days on the island are spent swimming, sunbathing...drinking fresh fruit shakes,” and the rhythm is “dictated by the arrival of the 2 daily boats that bring in...all food and supplies from the mainland and take back out the rubbish.”
On my first evening, I watched those supply boats depart at sunset, leaving Koh Rong in darkness except for a few generator-powered lights. With electricity often available only a few hours a day in budget accommodations, nightfall here means something rare: real darkness and quiet.
I strolled along the shore under a sky bursting with stars, hearing nothing but lapping waves and distant frog chirrups. It struck me that on Koh Rong, “you may need to forfeit some luxuries” – and that trade-off is precisely what preserves its off-the-grid magic.
There’s Wi-Fi in a few spots (often “painfully slow wifi beamed over from the mainland”) and patchy phone signal at best. Hot water showers and air-conditioning are uncommon; many beach bungalows still use scoop flush toilets and have only brackish well water on tap.
If your idea of paradise demands infinity pools and 24/7 electricity, you might be frustrated here. But if you relish the idea of an island that still feels like an adventure, Koh Rong delivers in spades.
To be clear, Koh Rong is no deserted island – travelers do come, and development is slowly creeping in. In fact, this jungle-clad gem was even the backdrop for a couple of seasons of the TV show Survivor.
Yet, “Koh Rong is a beautiful, laid-back, rustic tropical island” and not an overrun resort playground. Outside of Koh Touch’s backpacker bars, there’s almost no nightlife.
The island earned a party reputation years ago, but these days the “lively atmosphere is confined to [that] main beach”. Venture even one cove beyond, and you’re more likely to be sipping a $1 beer by candlelight or dozing in a hammock by 9 PM than dancing till dawn.
The lack of roads also means that each beach feels like its own little world – if you truly want to escape any crowds, you “need to make the effort to get across the island” (often by hiring a local boat or trekking through the jungle).
On pristine stretches like Lonely Beach or Palm Beach, you might not see another soul all day.
It’s this sense of wild isolation that gives Koh Rong its authentic character. Here, local Khmer villagers go about fishing and farming as they have for generations, mingling with expats who’ve opened rustic beach bars or diving shops.
In the tiny village of Daem Thkov where I spent one afternoon, kids kicked around a makeshift soccer ball and fishermen mended nets under coconut palms. A friendly restaurant owner served me spicy fish amok (a traditional curry steamed in banana leaf) and laughed when I asked if they had Wi-Fi – the answer was a proud “ot te,” Khmer for “no.”
Instead, I was invited to simply sit and enjoy the moment. On Koh Rong, disconnecting from technology isn’t a forced digital detox; it happens naturally as you adjust to island time. It’s easy to lose track of hours here while lounging on a porch swing or chatting with fellow travelers over yet another fresh coconut.
As one visitor noted with a mix of wonder and worry, infrastructure improvements are on the horizon – “a new port development is well underway…and an international airport has also been announced. While these will make the island more accessible, one can’t help thinking it will also mean the loss of its charm.”
For now, though, Koh Rong remains delightfully off the grid – and those who love it wouldn’t want it any other way.
Adventures for the Intrepid Traveler
By day, Koh Rong offers a playground of raw natural beauty. In place of man-made attractions or packaged tours, the island’s experiences revolve around its jungles and beaches.
One highlight is jungle trekking: trails (often little more than footpaths) crisscross the dense interior, leading determined hikers to hidden waterfalls and deserted coves.
I’ll never forget scrambling up and down muddy slopes on the so-called “Flip-Flop Trail,” grabbing tree roots for support and pausing to flick off the occasional leech. It was hot, sticky work – “clambering over rocks on the steep, sweaty jungle track” – and I definitely wished I’d worn sturdier shoes.
But the reward at trail’s end was incredible: I stumbled out of the foliage onto Long Beach (Sok San Beach), a 7-kilometer expanse of blindingly white sand “so impossibly soft and white” it squeaked underfoot. The turquoise sea stretched empty to the horizon, and I had this paradise beach all to myself except for a lone fishing boat.
Long Beach has been called “one of the best beaches in Southeast Asia,” and as I floated in its crystal-clear shallows, I couldn’t argue. Later, I learned a few upscale resorts have staked a claim at one end of Long Beach (including the island’s lone five-star hideaway, the Royal Sands), but I saw no one – just a few distant villas tucked among the palms.
If hiking isn’t your thing, you can rent a longtail boat to beach-hop around Koh Rong’s coast or even hire a local for a boat/kayak tour of the mangrove forests on the northeast shore.
Snorkeling and diving are also popular: vibrant coral reefs and neon fish await just off the beaches, and Koh Rong is known as one of the cheapest places in the world to get scuba certified.
I joined a daytime boat excursion that combined several activities – we trolled with hand-lines for fish (our captain grilled the catch for lunch), snorkeled above a reef teeming with parrotfish, and stopped at a shallow bay to climb up to a panoramic viewpoint. Each new beach we visited felt like a discovery.
One moment we’d be in a lively area like Koh Touch, watching backpackers clink beers on the pier; an hour later we’d land on a silent spit of sand with nothing but jungle and birdsong.
And then there are the nights, when Koh Rong offers one of its most magical experiences. Forget full-moon parties – here the greatest nightlife involves the ocean’s bioluminescent plankton. On a moonless night, I joined a small group for a plankton snorkeling trip.
We sped into the darkness by boat until the island’s last lights disappeared behind us. Anchored in a pitch-black bay, we slipped overboard with nervous laughter. Almost immediately, the water around us began to glow. With each movement of our arms and legs, we stirred up tiny galaxies of neon-blue sparks. It was like swimming through the stars.
I remember waving my hands underwater and watching “the water start to glitter with flashes of light from the phosphorescent plankton following my every move”. Dozens of otherworldly points of light clung to my skin, winking out when I went still.
Floating there in the warm, inky sea, our group fell into an awed silence broken only by the occasional “wide-eyed amazement” of someone breaking the surface to exclaim, “This is unreal!” Indeed, no photo can truly capture it – you simply have to experience Koh Rong’s living, glowing ocean for yourself.
Other simple pleasures round out the days on Koh Rong. Wake with the sunrise and join fishermen casting their nets at dawn. Take a slow kayak paddle along the coast to explore sea caves and hidden lagoons.
At night, gather around a bonfire on the beach – many guesthouses organize impromptu BBQs where $5 buys you a plate of freshly grilled barracuda, baked potato, and a cold beer under the stars.
Without urban distractions, social life here often means swapping travel stories with strangers-turned-friends at a candlelit table in the sand. It’s delightfully low-key. As one traveler aptly noted, “undeveloped sure is nice, but it does have its downsides.” True: you might get a few itchy sand-fly bites, or find a curious gecko in your bungalow.
But you’ll also remember how refreshingly real it felt to spend your vacation in a place that isn’t manicured or scripted – a place that makes you feel like a bit of a castaway (with benefits).
Practical Information for Visiting Koh Rong
Despite its remote feel, Koh Rong isn’t terribly hard to reach or navigate if you plan ahead. Below is a summary of key travel info to help you make the most of your trip:
Getting There | Ferries from Sihanoukville are the main access (45–60 minutes by speed ferry, around $25 round-trip). Slower ferries (2 hours) cost ~$15 return. Sihanoukville itself is ~4–5 hours by bus or taxi from Phnom Penh, or a 1-hour flight from Phnom Penh/Siem Reap.
For the ultra-luxe route, helicopters can charter directly to high-end resorts on Koh Rong, but most travelers stick to the boat. Once on Koh Rong, longtail boats or tuk-tuks (on the few rough roads) can get you between beaches, or arrange pickups with your hotel.
Where to Stay | Rustic bungalows and guesthouses are the norm. Dorm beds in hostels start around $5/night, basic private huts $15. Mid-range resorts (with fans or occasional A/C) range $30–$70. For example, Treehouse Bungalows offers simple seafront huts, while Anaya Resort provides modern villas with jungle views. There is one true luxury resort, the Royal Sands, with pool villas $200+ – but it’s isolated on its own beach.
Most lodgings are small, family-run, and right on the sand. Expect limited electricity (usually generator power at night) and no frills – the “unique combination of modernity and nature” is part of the appeal.
Average Costs | Budget about $30–50/day per person on Koh Rong, more if diving. Simple meals cost $3–$7 (local curries, noodle dishes, and fresh seafood are island favorites). Western food (pizzas, burgers) runs closer to $5–$10. Beers are $1–2, and cocktails $3–$5. Ferries are $25, guided boat trips $20–$30, and snorkeling gear rental $5.
Accommodation is the biggest variable: $10–$20 for basic fan bungalow, $40–$60 for nicer resort rooms. Keep in mind cash is king – there are no ATMs on the island, and credit cards are only accepted at a few larger resorts. Bring more cash than you think you’ll need (Cambodian riel or USD; USD is widely used).
Dining | Casual beachside eateries serve both Khmer and international fare. Don’t miss the seafood BBQs – every evening, guesthouses grill up the day’s catch (fish, squid, even barracuda) for around $5–$7 a plate.
In Koh Touch village you’ll find a surprisingly diverse food scene: from wood-fired pizza at Treehouse Bungalows to traditional Khmer curries at small family joints. There’s even a vegetarian café and the occasional expat-run bakery.
On more remote beaches, your guesthouse restaurant might be your only option – usually a mix of fried rice, noodle soups, and sandwiches. Nightlife is low-key: aside from a few barbecues and beach bars with music on Koh Touch, most places are quiet after 10 PM. This isn’t a party island in the mainstream sense, and that’s a relief to many.
Activities | Beach-hopping & Snorkeling: Explore multiple beaches (Long Set, Lonely Beach, 4K Beach) by foot or taxi-boat. The coral reefs offer good snorkeling – you can join boat tours that include gear and visit several spots. Jungle Trekking: Hike the interior trails to discover waterfalls and reach secluded shores like Long Beach.
Wear good shoes, carry water, and start early to avoid midday heat. Bioluminescent Plankton: A must-do – go on a night boat tour or simply wade into the dark water to see the sea light up around you.
Wildlife & Village Life: Keep an eye out for monkeys and hornbills in the trees, and consider visiting a local fishing village (organized tours can introduce you to community projects and school visits).
Water Sports: Kayaks and paddleboards can be rented on some beaches; a few places on Koh Touch rent jet skis, but most visitors stick to eco-friendlier fun like kayaking through mangroves. Diving courses (PADI certification) are offered for as low as $300 – among the cheapest in the world.
Best Time to Go | Dry season (November to early May) is ideal. The absolute best weather is Dec–Feb, with sunny skies, calm seas, and lower humidity. This is peak season, so beaches are a bit busier (though by no means “crowded”) and accommodation prices highest.
March–April gets hotter (up to 35°C), but still mostly dry. Rainy season runs May through October, bringing heavy downpours (especially July–September). Some resorts close during the rainiest months, and ferries may be unreliable on rough seas.
On the upside, you’ll find discounts and have the island nearly to yourself in the off-season. Whenever you go, remember to pack insect repellent, sunscreen, and an adventurous spirit! |
In the end, Koh Rong’s allure lies in what it lacks as much as what it offers. This is not a curated resort island or a place engineered for Instagrammers – it’s a slice of real tropical island life, with all its textures and quirks. Yes, you might have a cold shower and spot a gecko on your bungalow wall.
You’ll also wake up to the sound of waves and step out onto powdery sand without another person in sight. As one travel writer noted, “despite a couple of downsides it’s most definitely worth visiting”.
After a few days immersed in Koh Rong’s world – hiking through steamy jungles, swapping stories by candlelight, marveling at plankton that glow like fallen stars – I wholeheartedly agree.
When I boarded the ferry back to the mainland, sun-kissed and rejuvenated, I realized that the very things Koh Rong doesn’t have are what made my experience so special. Koh Rong might not be for everyone, and that’s exactly the point.
It’s authentic, it’s adventurous, and it’s a place you’ll daydream about long after the sand has been washed from your feet.