When I first arrived at Cabo San Juan Beach, I felt like I had stumbled into a secret five-star resort. It looked every bit as luxurious as a postcard from the Maldives or a private Caribbean island, but this little paradise was part of Colombia’s Tayrona National Park, and it was mine to enjoy for mere pocket change.
I had reached Cabo San Juan del Guía, often considered Tayrona’s most beautiful beach, and I hadn’t broken the bank to get here.
First Impressions of Cabo San Juan
My journey began with a sweaty but scenic hike through Tayrona’s dense tropical forest. I deliberately set out on a weekday morning, avoiding the weekend rush — Cabo San Juan is one of the most popular beaches in the park, especially during holidays and high season, so a bit of timing strategy goes a long way for tranquility.
The trail from the main El Zaino entrance was a fairly easy 3-hour walk through the jungle and along the coast, but it felt like a true adventure. As a solo traveler, I savored the solitude of the early stretches, broken only by the sounds of rustling leaves and distant waves.
At one point, I was lucky enough to spot a flash of movement overhead — a tiny white-faced tamarin monkey leaping between branches. Tayrona is teeming with wildlife, from colorful toucans to mischievous monkeys, and that brief encounter made me feel like an explorer on a grand expedition.
After a final bend in the trail, I got my first glimpse of Cabo San Juan’s famed double bay. It literally stopped me in my tracks. Two mirror-image beaches curved gently around crystalline water, sheltered by the natural cove. That rocky outcrop with the hammock hut perched on top splits the beach in two, creating a pair of idyllic coves.
The sea here is calm and inviting – a rarity on this wild stretch of coast – because the bays are protected from the strongest currents. In fact, Cabo San Juan is known as the safest swimming spot in Tayrona thanks to its semi-sheltered cove; there are even lifeguards on duty and a floating safety net marking the swim area.
I kicked off my boots, threw down my backpack, and sprinted straight into the gentle waves, laughing like a kid. The water was the perfect temperature, cooling me off from the hike, and as I floated on my back I looked around at the palms, the jungle-covered hills behind the beach, and that little hut on the rock. It was hard to believe I wasn’t at some exclusive island resort — it was that beautiful.
I laid out my towel on the sand, feeling utterly content. Around me were a handful of other travelers basking in the sun, but it was far from crowded (arriving mid-week paid off). A Colombian family was picnicking under a cluster of palms, and a couple of fellow backpackers were snapping photos of each other doing handstands by the water.
The atmosphere was joyful and unpretentious. Everyone here had hiked in or arrived by boat (there’s a daily boat from the village of Taganga that drops people off at Cabo San Juan for about 50,000 COP each way), so there was a shared sense of we earned this. No private jets or luxury transfers — just sweaty hikes or bumpy boat rides, making the reward of the beach feel even sweeter.
As the afternoon light mellowed, I climbed up the famous mirador (viewpoint) hut on the outcrop to take in the panoramic view. The hut is actually a two-level open-air gazebo where a few lucky travelers can sling their hammocks for the night.
From up there I could see the full expanse of both turquoise bays dotted with swimmers and the lush green jungle hugging the shore. In the distance, the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountains loomed faintly, their peaks often veiled in clouds.
I had one of those travel moments where you pause and think: Is this real? Here I was, looking out at a scene of pure tropical luxury — and aside from the park entry fee (around ₱70,000 Colombian pesos, roughly $15, plus a small insurance fee), it hadn’t cost me anything at all.
Hammocks with a Million-Dollar View
Cabo San Juan not only looks like a luxury beach destination, it also lets you stay overnight in style — at least, a certain kind of style that adventurous souls appreciate.
There are no high-rise hotels or fancy villas here. Instead, the accommodations are delightfully rustic, and for me that’s half the charm. As a solo traveler on a budget, I was thrilled to find I could secure a bed for the night for the price of a couple of cocktails back home.
The camping area at Cabo San Juan is tucked just behind the beach under the palms, and it offers a few options: you can pitch your own tent, rent a pre-set tent, book a spot in a shared dorm-style cabin (occasionally available), or — the crown jewel — reserve a hammock in the oceanfront hut.
I had heard the hammocks are the way to go, so I decided to splurge (if you can call it that) on the best “room” in the house: for 60,000 COP (about $15) I reserved a hammock up in the iconic rock-top mirador hut, the one with 360° views of the sea.
Sixty thousand pesos for a billion-star ocean view and the sound of waves as your lullaby? Yes, please. It felt like the greatest deal in the world.
Before sunset, I wandered over to the campsite office — really just a small shack — and checked in for the night. A friendly staffer handed me a sheet and pointed me to the hut. I climbed the wooden stairs to the upper level of the open-air pavilion, where about a dozen hammocks were hanging.
I staked my claim by draping my sheet and stashing my backpack in the middle of the hammock (a little trick to make it clear it was taken). The hut had no walls, just a thatched roof and a waist-high railing, so from my swinging bed I could see the entire beach and feel the breeze.
As I settled in, I chatted with a couple of other solo travelers stringing up their own hammocks. One girl from Germany grinned and said, “Can you believe this place? I’ve paid ten times more for hotel views that aren’t half as good as this.” I had to agree. We were essentially “glamping” in the most spectacular location imaginable, for the cost of a hostel dorm.
Now, I won’t pretend the accommodations are luxurious in the traditional sense. The facilities are basic – the word “rustic” is part of the package. The communal bathrooms had cold-water showers (not that you’d want hot water in this climate) and there was sand pretty much everywhere.
I took a quick rinse in the open-air shower shack, laughing as a tiny bright-green lizard skittered past my feet. It’s all part of the adventure.
The campsite provides lockers for valuables (bring your own lock) and there are rows of tents on the ground if hammocks aren’t your thing. Those who brought their own tent were camping for around 30,000 COP (under $8) a night, and renting a ready tent costs a bit more (about 70,000 COP or higher depending on size).
I peeked into the tent area and noted they were set quite close together – a patchwork of blue and green domes and tarps under the palms. It’s not privacy or opulence you come here for, it’s the location. And in that department, Cabo San Juan’s campground is a million-dollar property.
As dusk fell, I found myself sitting on a driftwood log with a few new friends from the campsite, watching the sky turn tangerine and pink. The sunset over the bay was magical. The last swimmers were heading in, and pelicans were gliding low over the water.
We shared travel stories — a French photographer describing his trek to Ciudad Perdida, an Aussie couple recounting a bus mishap in Bogotá — and we toasted with slightly warm beers bought from the little shop. There’s something about Cabo San Juan that creates instant camaraderie among travelers.
Maybe it’s the absence of Wi-Fi and luxury distractions; everyone is present in the moment, enjoying nature’s show. When the stars began to pop out, one by one, I climbed back up to my hammock. Lying there with a balmy breeze sweeping over me and an unobstructed view of the night sky, I felt like I was in the world’s greatest open-air hotel.
The Milky Way was visible overhead, and I could hear the distant crash of waves on the rocks. I’ve stayed in fancy resorts before, but none gave me the simple, profound pleasure of that hammock in Cabo San Juan.
Travel Tip: If you plan to hammock here, consider bringing a light sleeping liner or insect repellent. Mosquitoes can be relentless in the jungle humidity, and while the ocean breeze helps, you’ll want protection. Also, it’s wise to arrive by midday to reserve a spot, especially in high season, as these prime hammocks are popular!
Coconut Rice and Fresh Fish
Waking up at dawn in Cabo San Juan was a treat I will never forget. The sky was a watercolor of purples and oranges, and a gentle mist clung to the jungle canopy. I swung lazily in my hammock, watching frigatebirds soar above and listening to the jungle come alive with bird calls.
As a solo traveler, I cherish these quiet moments when you can fully absorb a place. Eventually, hunger (and the aroma of coffee) motivated me to climb down and wander toward the on-site restaurant for breakfast.
One of the best surprises about Cabo San Juan is that despite being fairly remote, you won’t go hungry here. There’s a large restaurant just a short walk from the shore offering big meals at reasonable prices, and it became the social hub of the beach at meal times.
The building is a simple open-air hall with wooden tables and benches, covered by a thatched roof. By the time I arrived, a small line had formed at the ordering counter — a mix of groggy campers and day-trippers who had come by boat that morning.
The menu (handwritten on a chalkboard in Spanish and English) offered surprisingly diverse options: hearty Colombian breakfasts like eggs with arepas, plenty of fresh fruit, and for later in the day, grilled fish, chicken platters, vegetarian rice dishes, and even pasta.
Meals range roughly from 15,000 COP for a basic breakfast to 50,000 COP for a more elaborate dinner (about $4 to $12), which is higher than in the city of course, but very fair given you’re in a national park where everything must be brought in by mule or boat.
I ordered an omelet with ham and cheese, plus a cup of tinto (Colombian coffee). As I waited, I chatted with a couple of travelers in line, swapping tips about other Colombian destinations.
There’s a lovely sense of community among those who stay overnight — you start recognizing familiar faces and sharing experiences. When my number was called, I picked up a plate brimming with food. I took my breakfast to a little table facing the beach, sinking my toes into the sand as I ate.
The omelet was basic but tasty, and the coffee strong. Honestly, dining barefoot with an ocean view made it feel like a five-star experience to me, though I was essentially eating a $4 breakfast off a plastic plate.
For lunch and dinner, the specialty at the Cabo San Juan restaurant is locally caught fish with coconut rice, a coastal Caribbean classic. I tried it that evening: a generous fillet of fish (grilled simply with garlic and lemon) served alongside arroz con coco (savory-sweet coconut rice) and patacones (fried plantain slices).
Devouring fresh fish while looking out at a sunset-painted sea — I’d trade that ambiance for a Michelin star any day. And it cost me around 40,000 pesos (roughly $10). I remember thinking, this is the life. Sure, you have to bus your own dishes and the rum punch comes in a paper cup, but the backdrop is unparalleled.
In addition to the main restaurant, there’s a small snack bar a little further down the beach that sells quick bites like empanadas, chips, and cold drinks. I grabbed a refreshing coconut water from a vendor who was chopping coconuts with a machete right on the sand — drank it straight from the shell for a few pesos. It’s the little things that make you feel rich in experience if not in dollars.
Travel Tip: The restaurant operates on set hours for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, so pay attention to the posted times. If you get the munchies in between, that snack bar and a tiny convenience shop (selling water, cookies, sunscreen, etc.) are your go-to. Also, bringing some of your own snacks is wise, especially if you plan to hike or if you’re on a tight budget.
Activities at Cabo San Juan
My days at Cabo San Juan were blissfully full, and yet wonderfully unhurried. The beauty of this place is that you can be as lazy or as active as you please, and either way you’ll come away feeling like you’ve had a rich experience.
As a solo traveler, I loved having the freedom to structure my day on a whim, whether that meant joining newfound friends for an adventure or wandering off on my own.
Swimming and Snorkeling: Every morning, I made the Caribbean Sea my personal infinity pool. The water in the twin bays is typically calm and crystal-clear thanks to the shelter of the cove, and I usually swam multiple times a day – before breakfast, in the lazy afternoon, and at sunset.
Unlike many other beaches in Tayrona where swimming is dangerous, Cabo San Juan’s waters are swimmer-friendly and watched by lifeguards. Still, I stayed mindful of the conditions; on one particularly windy afternoon, the waves picked up a bit, so I stuck closer to shore.
I also brought along a snorkel mask (highly recommended to pack if you have one). While this isn’t the Great Barrier Reef, I had fun snorkeling around the rocks near the edges of the bay, where I spotted small schools of tropical fish flitting around the coral and seaweed.
A few other travelers snorkeled as well, and we excitedly pointed out what we saw to each other — “¡Mira! A yellow pufferfish!” It’s a casual, do-it-yourself snorkel experience (no tour booking needed), but it added to that luxury feel of having a tropical playground at my doorstep.
Hiking to Nearby Beaches: One afternoon, I decided to explore beyond Cabo San Juan. A well-trodden footpath leads further east to Playa Nudista (yes, a nudist beach) about 15–20 minutes away. Don’t let the name deter you — nudity is allowed but not required (and when I went, it was so quiet I saw only two people there, both clothed).
The beach itself was gorgeous and utterly tranquil, with not a single shelter or building in sight. I felt like I’d found a hidden cove. Swimming there is not recommended due to stronger currents, so after a cooling wade up to my knees, I was content to just sit on a rock and enjoy the solitude.
On my way back, I detoured to La Piscina (“The Pool”), a beach we passed on the hike in. True to its name, La Piscina is another calm bay enclosed by reefs, creating a natural swimming pool. I spent an hour floating lazily there, face up to the sun, reflecting on how luxurious it felt to have the time to do absolutely nothing.
Wildlife Encounters: Being inside a national park, Cabo San Juan offers more than just beaches. The surrounding jungle is alive with creatures. In the mornings, I often saw capuchin monkeys swinging through the trees near the campground – one cheeky fellow even tried to sneak into the snack bar area before a staff member shooed him away.
Colorful iguanas frequently sunned themselves on the warm rocks by the beach trail, and I was amazed at how big some of them were, like mini-dragons. If you wander the trails at quieter times, you increase your odds of spotting wildlife.
During one midday stroll back from Arrecifes (another beach on the way to the park entrance), I was absolutely thrilled to encounter a small group of cotton-top tamarins – tiny monkeys with shock-white mohawks – scampering across the path.
Moments like that made me appreciate that this “luxury” destination was also a living, breathing ecosystem. Tayrona is home to an incredible diversity of fauna, including over 100 species of mammals and hundreds of bird species, all thriving in the protected area.
It’s not every beach vacation where you might see monkeys, tropical frogs, and toucans in the same day. For me, that was more priceless than any amenity a resort could offer.
Making Friends & Stargazing: Solo travel at Cabo San Juan never actually felt lonely. By day I had my fill of personal adventures, but by evening a communal spirit took over. After dinner, most people gathered in small clusters – some played cards by flashlight, others passed around a guitar.
I joined a group of travelers lying on the beach looking up at the stars, our conversation punctuated by awe every time a shooting star streaked across the sky. With virtually no light pollution out here, the night sky was dazzling. We identified constellations, shared stories about our home countries, and soaked in the kind of relaxed togetherness that’s hard to find in a formal hotel.
One traveler remarked that this felt like “summer camp in paradise,” and I found that description perfect. The luxury here isn’t about being waited on; it’s about the luxury of free time, nature, and genuine human connection.
Note: One popular activity that used to be on Tayrona’s map was a hike to an indigenous ruin called El Pueblito, often compared to a mini-Lost City. I initially wanted to hike there from Cabo San Juan, but learned that the trail to El Pueblito from this side has been closed since 2018 at the request of the indigenous community. It’s considered a sacred site, and tourists are no longer allowed through. I respected that decision – it’s a reminder that this park isn’t just a playground for travelers, but also a culturally significant land. If you’re keen to see El Pueblito, it can still be accessed via a different entrance (Calabazo) on a multi-day trek, but that’s a separate adventure.
Culture and Local Charm
One aspect of Cabo San Juan that truly enriches the experience is the sense of culture and respect for nature that permeates the place. This isn’t a manufactured resort with fake islander dances or buffet theme nights. This is real Colombia, and you feel that in the small interactions and stories you hear along the way.
Tayrona National Park is not only a natural paradise but also a sacred homeland to the indigenous Kogi and other descendants of the Tayrona people. I spoke with a park ranger one afternoon, a young man from a nearby town, and he told me a bit about the park’s significance.
He explained that the indigenous communities consider these lands and seas their “heart of the world,” and they perform rituals to keep it in balance. In fact, each year the park is closed to visitors for several weeks (typically in February, June, and late October) so that the indigenous caretakers can perform cleaning and restoration ceremonies, giving nature a break.
Hearing this gave me a profound appreciation that Cabo San Juan isn’t just a pretty beach – it’s part of a living cultural landscape. The luxury here is also in the authenticity of being in a place cared for by people with deep reverence for the land.
I noticed that most travelers, including myself, behaved respectfully: we packed out our trash, kept the noise down at night, and treated the environment as the precious sanctuary it is.
The local Colombian Caribbean culture also shines through in more lighthearted ways. The staff at the restaurant and campground, mostly locals from the Santa Marta region, were warm and patient despite working long hours in the heat.
I often heard the upbeat rhythms of vallenato music playing softly from the kitchen radio. In the afternoons, a few entrepreneurial locals wandered the beach selling fresh fruit – I bought the juiciest mango on a stick, drizzled with lime and salt, from a woman with a big smile who greeted me with a friendly “¡Buenas!”.
Even the way time seemed to slow down here felt culturally Colombian; there was no rush, no strict schedule. Things happened when they happened – a refreshing change from my regimented life back home.
Safety-wise, I found Cabo San Juan to be remarkably worry-free. Colombia sometimes gets a bad rap for security, but this corner of it felt very secure. There’s a constant (but low-key) park ranger presence, and I never once felt threatened or at risk. In fact, crime is virtually unheard of on this beach.
I happily left my sandals and day-pack on the sand when I went for dips, and they were always there when I returned (of course, I kept my passport and wallet on me or locked up, as any traveler should). As a solo traveler, this peace of mind was priceless.
It allowed me to fully relax and indulge in the experience. I even dared to wander into the palms at night with my camera and tripod to try some long-exposure shots of the hut and stars, something I probably wouldn’t do alone elsewhere, but here I felt completely at ease, like we were all part of a little temporary community looking out for one another.
The Luxury of Simplicity
On my last morning, I woke up extra early to savor every remaining minute at Cabo San Juan. I quietly slipped out of my hammock and tiptoed down to the beach while the sky was still a pale gray.
To my delight, I found I had the entire stretch of sand completely to myself – a private beach, just for me. I did a few lazy yoga stretches by the water’s edge and then just stood there, watching the sun peek over the jungle.
The sunrise light set the palm fronds aglow and turned the calm bay into a shimmering mirror. In that moment I felt a deep sense of wealth – not of money, but of life.
This is the paradox of Cabo San Juan: it feels like pure luxury even though it’s incredibly budget-friendly. The luxury comes from the beauty of the environment, the slowness of time, and the richness of the experiences rather than high-thread-count sheets or infinity pools (though nature’s version of an infinity pool is right there in the bay!).
I left Cabo San Juan feeling rejuvenated and inspired, as if I had been on a wellness retreat designed by Mother Nature herself. And my wallet? Hardly lighter than when I arrived. A couple nights in a hammock, park fees, simple meals, and a boat ride back – the entire adventure cost less than a single night in a big-city hotel.
For solo travelers, Cabo San Juan offers something especially rewarding: it’s a place where you can find both solitude and companionship, adventure and relaxation, and do it all on a shoestring budget. I often think back to that hammock hut, swaying gently with the breeze, and the realization that some of the best things in life really are either free or very cheap.
Cabo San Juan Beach is the kind of destination that proves you don’t need to spend a fortune to live richly. In my travel diary I wrote, “Here I am, feeling like a millionaire in paradise, and all it cost me was the courage to come here.”
So if you’re wondering whether to include Cabo San Juan in your Colombia itinerary, take it from me: don’t miss this place.
Pack your sense of adventure (and bug spray), leave the designer luggage behind, and come experience the luxury of simplicity on a tropical beach that will steal your heart without stealing your savings.
Cabo San Juan may just be the ultimate proof that the best luxury travel experiences aren’t about money at all — they’re about moments. And the moments I lived on that beach, I’ll cherish for a lifetime.
