I knew I was in for something special the moment our tiny plane began its descent. Below me spread a patchwork of emerald waters and white-sand beaches ringed by dramatic limestone cliffs, a seascape so surreal it had indeed starred in Hollywood (scenes from The Bourne Legacy were filmed amid these islands).
As the wheels touched down on El Nido’s lone airstrip after an hour’s flight from Manila, a chorus of smiling locals serenaded our arrival, a traditional Palawan welcome that made the journey feel more like coming home.
Stepping off the plane, I was welcomed by warm ocean breezes and the scent of salt and tropical blooms.
In that moment I understood why El Nido, Palawan sits atop so many luxury travelers’ bucket lists.
Exclusive Adventures in a Hidden Paradise
El Nido isn’t merely a destination; it’s a remote paradise of 45 islands and islets where exclusivity and adventure intertwine. My days began with private yacht trips to explore secret lagoons and hidden coves inaccessible to the usual crowds.
Gliding over crystal-clear waters, I felt like an early explorer encountering nature’s best-kept secrets. I paddled a kayak into the famed Small Lagoon just after dawn, the only sounds the dip of my paddle and the distant calls of tropical birds. Surrounded by karst limestone walls towering above tranquil jade-green water, I had to remind myself this was real.
The El Nido region is a haven of limestone cliffs, secret lagoons, and deserted beaches where one can snorkel, kayak or dive in peace. With countless postcard-worthy islands at hand, island-hopping here means discovering your own slice of paradise each day.
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One morning we anchored at Entalula Beach, a powdery white crescent framed by lush jungle. Slipping into the water, I snorkeled through a vibrant coral reef just a few yards from shore, spotting neon clownfish and angelfish darting among the corals.
For thrill-seekers, cliff diving off limestone outcrops into the sea or trekking to viewpoints for a 360° panorama are on offer too. Yet it’s all done far from any crowds – a “crowd-free luxury holiday” as one private island resort likes to call it. Each excursion felt tailor-made and intimate, as if these spectacular islands existed for me alone.
Even under the waves, El Nido dazzles the high-end adventurer. Divers here enjoy some of the best underwater scenery in Southeast Asia.
I joined a guided dive at Entalula Island’s west bay, finning along a coral garden that gave way to a dramatic wall drop-off. In the blue below appeared a sea turtle gliding silently, and moments later our divemaster pointed out a young reef shark cruising the depths – encounters not uncommon in these protected waters. On another day, as we skimmed across Bacuit Bay, a pod of dolphins burst forth to surf our bow wave, to our delight.
Whether snorkeling in the lagoons, swimming among baby reef sharks at sunrise, or marveling at a kaleidoscope of reef fish, the experiences are up-close and utterly exclusive.
And when you’re ready to relax, the crew sets up a picnic on a deserted sandbank just for you – chilled champagne, fresh mangoes and all – as if orchestrating a scene from a Condé Nast Traveler spread.
Luxury Eco-Resorts and Private Island Retreats
Back on land (or rather, island), El Nido pampers its guests with some of the most exclusive accommodations in the Philippines. Each resort here seems to occupy its own private island or hidden cove, ensuring a sense of solitude and serenity.
I checked into Pangulasian Island Resort, often dubbed the crown jewel of El Nido. Arriving by boat to a welcome of cool towels and calamansi juice, I was shown to my villa – one of only 42 villas set along a white-sand beach facing the emerald waters of Bacuit Bay.
Pangulasian is an eco-luxury hideaway known as the “Island of the Sun,” famed for magical sunrise and sunset views. My villa’s design was contemporary Filipino, with native hardwoods and thatched roofing, but all the modern comforts were at hand – from air conditioning to an expansive bathroom opening onto a private plunge pool.
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At any time I could step out to the 750-meter stretch of immaculate beach lapped by clear shallows teeming with baby fish. Just offshore lay a marine sanctuary reef perfect for snorkeling, essentially a private aquarium for resort guests.
On my first afternoon, I swam out a few meters and found myself amid a school of shimmering jackfish – the same “Jackfish swarm” experience that El Nido’s divers rave about.
What sets El Nido’s resorts apart is how effortlessly they blend five-star comfort with the wild beauty around them. Each resort has its own personality: El Nido Resorts, for instance, operates four distinct island properties – Miniloc, Lagen, Apulit, and Pangulasian – offering everything from expansive beachfront villas to over-water bungalows on stilts.
Lagen Island Resort nestles in a forest cove and features a spa and forest trails for birdwatching, while the original Miniloc Island Resort resembles a coastal fishing village, exuding rustic charm with cottages that hover above turquoise lagoons.
At Pangulasian, my days alternated between adventure and absolute indulgence: one morning I’d set off on a guided nature walk through the jungle, spotting hornbills and orchids, and by afternoon I’d retreat to the infinity pool at the resort’s cliffside club house, ordering sundowner cocktails delivered to my cabana.
The staff seemed to anticipate my every whim with genuine smiles – whether arranging a private candlelit dinner on the beach or simply sharing stories about local culture. It’s no surprise that El Nido Resorts were recently voted the best in the Philippines (and second in all of Asia) by Condé Nast Traveler’s readers.
The feeling here is that of an exclusive club harmoniously set in nature. Every element, from the organic local cuisine to the solar-powered villas, reflects a commitment to sustainability and luxury – proof that you can indulge guilt-free in this “green” paradise.
For those craving the ultimate seclusion, El Nido and Palawan have options that redefine exclusivity. One evening I visited Cauayan Island Resort, a private-island retreat where villas come with their own plunge pools and the beach is frequented by baby whale sharks in season.
And if money is truly no object, Palawan even offers Banwa Private Island, often cited as the world’s most expensive resort. This ultraluxe hideaway initially opened at a staggering $100,000 per night (yes, you read that right) and, even after a recent rate cut, still charges around $45,000 a night for exclusive charter of the entire island.
At Banwa, a lucky few (up to 36 guests) have six beachfront villas, a team of private chefs and butlers, a personal spa, and a fleet of yachts and water toys at their disposal – essentially a billionaire’s playground in the middle of nowhere. While Banwa’s price tag is extraordinary, it underscores the range of high-end experiences Palawan offers.
More accessible (relatively speaking) are the likes of Amanpulo on a neighboring Palawan isle, where celebrities escape winter in overwater bungalows; or Ariara Island, which you can rent entirely for your family for a Robinson Crusoe-meets-Ritz Carlton fantasy.
In El Nido itself, private villas or boutique luxury lodges can also be booked for a more intimate stay – I met one couple who had rented a modern cliffside villa with its own chef and speedboat for exploring, a setup they described as “our James Bond hideout.” The common thread among all these stays is how tailor-made and tranquil the experience is.
You’re not just paying for a room, but for privacy, pampering, and a front-row seat to nature’s grandeur.
Despite the opulence, El Nido’s luxury tourism remains low-impact and eco-conscious. There are no towering hotel chains here (local regulations actually forbid them), and resorts are designed to merge with the landscape rather than dominate it.
I noticed solar panels tucked behind villas, rainwater collection systems, and an evident pride among staff in conservation programs. In fact, guests are gently educated on protecting the environment – no single-use plastics, please, and everyone is encouraged to support local community projects.
Knowing that the reef I snorkeled over is being actively protected and that much of Palawan is a marine reserve makes the experience all the more meaningful. Luxury and sustainability go hand-in-hand in El Nido, which is part of why seasoned travelers find it so special. It feels like a last pristine frontier – one that we’re privileged to enjoy and also responsible to preserve.
Natural Wonders
Beyond the sumptuous resorts, it’s nature that truly stages the show in El Nido. Every day brought a new awe-inspiring tableau of natural beauty. Picture this: you hop on a speedboat and within minutes are floating inside the Big Lagoon of Miniloc Island, a cathedral-like pool of crystal water encircled by sheer limestone walls draped in greenery.
As the morning light filters in, turning the water an electric shade of turquoise, you can’t help but feel reverence – it’s like entering a sacred space of nature. Such moments are commonplace here. El Nido’s surrounding Bacuit Archipelago is often hailed as one of the world’s most beautiful seascapes, and in person it exceeds every expectation.
I lost count of the number of hidden beaches we stumbled upon – stretches of sand you’d see on a screensaver, but completely empty except for perhaps a curious monitor lizard or a couple of hermit crabs. One favorite was Hidden Beach, concealed behind jagged rocks until you nearly run aground; wading ashore feels like discovering a lost world.
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In these places, time truly slows. I spent an afternoon lazing on the powdery sand of Nacpan Beach, a four-kilometer strand often ranked among Asia’s best, with nothing but the gentle crash of waves and a fresh coconut in hand.
El Nido offers that rare blend of exclusivity and raw natural beauty – you can indulge in it, yet it never feels tamed or overly manicured.
Several “signature experiences” here will top any luxury traveler’s list. Kayaking through the mangrove channels of Lagen Island at dusk was one of mine – navigating a silent waterway with the last light of day painting the sky orange, and fireflies beginning to wink in the shadows of the mangroves.
Another morning, our guide led us on a short hike up to Pangulasian’s viewpoint, where we caught a 360-degree sunrise panorama over the islands – the kind of view that makes you whisper “wow” involuntarily, with the sun breaking over distant isles and golden light flooding the bay.
Adrenaline junkies can opt to scuba dive at South Miniloc and weave through underwater tunnels festooned with soft corals, or even try free-diving courses offered at some resorts.
Yet one of the simplest pleasures I’ll always cherish was paddleboarding at dawn in the calm shallows off our resort, the water like glass, as baby reef sharks – harmless little black-tips – darted beneath my board. It was a gentle reminder that here, we are visitors in a rich marine homeland.
Of course, El Nido’s experiences can be as relaxing or as active as you desire. For every adventurous outing, there’s an equally blissful counterpart. You might follow up a morning of snorkeling colorful reefs with an open-air massage in a secluded jungle spa pavilion.
Or swap an island-hopping day with a poolside afternoon – stretched out in a private cabana with ocean views, a good book, and the staff bringing a steady supply of fresh fruit shakes. One evening, I joined a sunset cruise on a luxury catamaran: we sailed out as the sun descended, and the crew served canapés of local prawns and sparkling wine.
The sky turned a dozen fiery hues and for a moment, it felt like the entire palette of Palawan – sapphire waters, emerald forests, coral sunsets – was putting on a farewell show just for us. These are the kinds of indelible memories El Nido crafts effortlessly.
Little wonder that El Nido is often compared to how Bali or Phuket must have been decades ago – an unspoiled idyll, “an untouched jewel” that travel magazines urge you to visit before it becomes mainstream. There is a sense of now or never about El Nido’s purity, and being here feels like witnessing a paradise in its prime.
Practical Tips for Planning Your El Nido Escape
Planning a trip to El Nido, Palawan requires a bit more forethought than an average getaway – part of why the experience remains exclusive. Getting here: Most visitors will fly into the Philippines’ capital, Manila, then connect onward.
The fastest route is a direct domestic flight on a boutique airline (AirSWIFT) from Manila to El Nido’s tiny Lio Airport. These small planes (with around 50 seats) land you just minutes from the resorts – and yes, you’ll likely be greeted by those charming serenading ladies on arrival, a special El Nido touch. Flight time is about an hour and fifteen minutes.
Do note, with only limited seats, these flights fill up quickly, especially in high season. An alternative is to fly to Puerto Princesa (Palawan’s main city) and take a private car or van north to El Nido, roughly a 4-5 hour scenic drive through countryside and coastal roads.
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However, most luxury travelers prefer to skip the long drive and either fly direct or even charter a private seaplane or helicopter for efficiency.
Some resorts assist in arranging charter flights or exclusive transfers for their guests. There are no direct international flights to this corner of Palawan, which means you should account for that Manila stopover.
Many visitors choose to spend a night in Manila on the way (perhaps at a five-star city hotel to smooth the transit) before heading out to paradise.
When to go: Palawan enjoys a tropical climate that’s generally warm year-round and notably is shielded from most major typhoons that hit other parts of the Philippines.
That said, there are distinct seasons. The dry season from December to May is widely considered the best time to visit El Nido – days are sunny, humidity is lower, and the sea is at its calmest for island hopping and diving. In these months, temperatures hover around a pleasant 24–31°C (75–88°F) and rainfall is rare.
This window is also peak season (especially December–February), when many travelers flock here to escape winter elsewhere.
Resorts and flights book up far in advance for holidays, and prices reach their apex. If you plan to travel during this time, book your accommodation and flights several months early to secure your spot. For those seeking a bit more solitude or value, the shoulder months of April, May, and November can be ideal.
Late April and May are actually summer in the Philippines – expect hotter days, but the seas are ultra-calm and crowds slightly thinner once Easter passes. June to October is the rainy season (also the off-peak). While Palawan’s rains are not as incessant as some destinations, you can expect periodic tropical downpours, especially July to September.
Some days island tours may be postponed by weather, but the upside is far fewer tourists and lower rates during this period. The landscapes turn lush green, and you might have a resort practically to yourself.
If you don’t mind the chance of rain – and come prepared with a flexible itinerary and perhaps a good book – visiting in the off-season can be a rewarding way to experience El Nido’s tranquility.
Just avoid any extreme weather alerts, and note that a few smaller resorts and tour operators do take annual maintenance breaks in the wettest months.
Cost expectations: Let’s talk numbers. There’s no denying that El Nido is a high-end destination, and prices reflect its remote location and premium offerings. Luxury resorts here typically charge in the hundreds of dollars per night for a standard room or cottage.
For example, rooms at top properties like Pangulasian Island often start around $800+ per night in the low season and can easily exceed $1,000 per night in peak months for higher-tier villas or private pool suites.
These rates usually include breakfast and some activities (many resorts bundle complimentary island-hopping tours or water sports gear), but dining, spa treatments, and private excursions will be additional.
Private island resorts or villa rentals – such as the ultra-exclusive outposts – can run into the several thousands per night. As noted, the sky’s the limit at a place like Banwa Private Island at ~$45k nightly for full island charter, but more modest (yet still ultra-luxe) private island stays might be in the $2,000–$5,000 per night range for a couple.
In El Nido town itself or its mainland beach areas, a few upscale boutique hotels and villas exist at lower cost, but generally this is not a shoestring destination. Dining and services at resorts are priced akin to a luxury hotel anywhere – expect resort cocktails ~$10-15, main courses $20-30 and up (though often well worth it for the setting and freshness; do try the local grilled seafood and kinilaw, a Filipino ceviche).
If you venture into El Nido poblacion (town) for a night, you can find authentic local meals for a fraction of resort prices – a fun excursion even for luxury travelers, to taste the famed Filipino cuisine and hospitality in a humble beach shack setting.
Despite the costs, travelers consistently find El Nido delivers exceptional value for the unforgettable experience it provides. After all, how often do you get to kayak through a lagoon at sunrise completely alone, or have a pristine coral reef at your resort’s doorstep? These are once-in-a-lifetime moments worth the splurge.
That said, it’s wise to plan your budget beforehand: account for transfers (private boat charters, seaplane rides, etc. can add up), the environmental fees (a small ₱200 Eco-Tourism Development Fee is collected per visitor for the duration of your stay), and any special tours you might want (a private all-day yacht excursion with diving might run a few hundred dollars).
Tipping is not mandatory in the Philippines, but at high-end resorts it’s appreciated for excellent service – many guests leave a gratuity at check-out to be shared among staff.
Lastly, book early and communicate any special requests to your resort ahead of time. As the official tourism guide notes, accommodations range from $10 guesthouses to $1,000+ villas, and rooms fill up fast in El Nido. If you have your eye on that overwater bungalow or the cliffside villa with the best view, reserving months in advance (even 6-12 months for peak season) is prudent.
Many luxury resorts also offer private buyout options or special packages for honeymoons, anniversaries, and group trips, so don’t hesitate to inquire – bespoke is the norm here.
Paradise Found
On my final day in El Nido, I woke early and walked barefoot along the beach in front of my villa.
The first light of dawn was just touching the limestone peaks across the bay, turning them honey-gold. The sea was utterly calm, a mirror for the pastel sky. In the distance, a solitary local bangka boat puttered softly, likely a fisherman heading out for the morning’s catch – one of the few reminders of the outside world.
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I absorbed this stillness, trying to etch every sensation into memory: the silk-like warmth of the air, the gentle lap of translucent water at my feet, the faint aroma of brewed barako coffee coming from the resort pavilion. In the past week I had been pampered and amazed in equal measure.
El Nido managed to stir my soul with its untouched natural beauty while simultaneously satisfying every longing for comfort and indulgence.
It is a place where luxury feels in harmony with nature – where you can spend the day exploring jungle-clad islands and vibrant reefs, then return to a gourmet dinner under the stars, toes in the sand, no detail overlooked by the staff. Such balance is rare in travel.
As I reluctantly boarded the boat to begin my journey home, I understood on a deep level why El Nido, Palawan is on every luxury traveler’s bucket list. It’s not just the exclusive resorts or the bragging rights of visiting the “world’s best island”. It’s the way this place makes you feel.
Time is the ultimate luxury, as they say, and time seems to stretch and deepen in El Nido. Days feel fuller, richer – each sunrise hike or snorkel, each sunset cocktail or starlit kayak paddle becomes a cherished memory in the making.
In El Nido, you find privacy without isolation, adventure without hassle, and a profound connection with nature without sacrificing comfort.
I left with my mind rejuvenated, my heart full, and a promise to myself to return to this paradise before long.
For anyone seeking that rare mix of exclusivity, tranquility, and natural beauty, El Nido awaits – a destination truly worthy of its world-class reputation and of every traveler's dreams.
