I still remember the morning I first arrived at Machu Picchu. The sun was just peeking over the Andes, mist clung to the emerald peaks, and there I stood at the Sun Gate, gazing down at the lost Inca city.
Getting there was not a simple feat – it was the culmination of days of sweat, awe, and occasional doubt on a steep trail.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through all the major routes to Machu Picchu – from the classic multi-day treks to alternative adventures and the straightforward train ride – weaving in personal insights alongside practical details.
We’ll talk about how to book each route, the permits and regulations (especially for the Inca Trail and the coveted Huayna Picchu/Machu Picchu Mountain hikes), typical costs, and what you can expect in terms of challenge, scenery, culture, and safety.
By the end, you’ll not only know how to reach Machu Picchu, but also have a feel for the journey, as if you were right there with me on the trail.
Andean Path Travel
The Classic Inca Trail
If Machu Picchu is the destination, the Classic Inca Trail is the legendary journey. This 4-day, 42 km (26 mile) trek is world-famous for good reason. It follows an ancient stone-paved path built by the Incas themselves, winding from the Sacred Valley up through cloud forests and high mountain passes, past half-ruined Inca outposts draped in vines, and ultimately through the Inti Punku (Sun Gate) at dawn, where Machu Picchu dramatically reveals itself.
Hiking the Inca Trail isn’t just a trek – it feels like a pilgrimage. I’ll never forget trudging up to Dead Woman’s Pass (Warmiwañusca, 4,215 m), lungs burning in the thin air, then celebrating with my group at the summit sign, knowing the hardest part was behind us.
The trail’s highest point earned its ominous name from the profile of the mountain, but standing there, surrounded by peaks and sky, I felt more alive than ever.
What to Expect
The Classic Inca Trail is typically a 4-day guided trek (3 nights camping). It’s rated moderate to challenging – you don’t need to be a super athlete, but the altitude and relentless stone steps will test you. Day 1 eases you in with gentle inclines through lush valley scenery, passing terraces and the ruins of Llactapata.
Day 2 is the make-or-break: a steep ascent through varying ecosystems to Dead Woman’s Pass at 4,200+ meters (13,800 ft), the trek’s highest point. Reaching that pass was a powerful mix of exhaustion and exhilaration. (Pro tip: go pole pole – “slowly, slowly” – and take breaks. Everyone feels the altitude here, so you’re not alone!) After a lung-busting climb and a celebratory summit photo, you descend into a misty valley and camp.
Day 3 treats you to a rollercoaster of up-and-down trails through cloud forest, crossing a second high pass (around 4,000 m) and revealing increasingly frequent Inca sites like Sayacmarca and Phuyupatamarca. Many trekkers (myself included) consider this the most beautiful day – imagine walking on ancient stone steps, orchids and exotic birds around you, with the knowledge that you’re nearing Machu Picchu.
That night, you camp near Wiñay Wayna, an impressive terraced ruin whose name means “Forever Young” – an apt descriptor for how you’ll feel soaking in the surreal surroundings, no matter how sore your legs are.
On Day 4, it’s a pre-dawn start to reach the Sun Gate by sunrise. There’s an unforgettable moment when, through the stone gateway, Machu Picchu appears far below, blanketed in early morning cloud that slowly melts away. Every blister and early wake-up call pays off in that instant.
Permits and Booking
The Classic Inca Trail is as regulated as it is renowned. To protect the route, the Peruvian government caps access at 500 permits per day, and that number includes all support staff (guides, porters, cooks).
In practice, only about 200 or so tourist spots are available each day. You must hike with a licensed tour operator (independent trekking on the Inca Trail is not allowed). Permits can sell out 4–6 months in advance for peak season dates (May through August).
If you have your heart set on this trek, book as early as possible – many people reserve in the fall for trips the following summer. Operators will secure your permit for the date you book, and the permit is linked to your passport, so you must provide your exact details. Also note: the Inca Trail is closed every February for maintenance, so plan around that.
Booking is usually done through an adventure travel company or directly with a local operator in Cusco. There’s a wide range of tour companies, from budget to luxury. Typical costs in 2025 range roughly $700–$850 USD per person for a standard 4-day Inca Trail package.
This usually includes the permit, Machu Picchu entry fee, transportation, guide, camping gear, meals, and the spectacular train ride back to Cusco after your Machu Picchu visit. Some high-end or private tours can cost $1000+ with extra amenities, while any offer below $600 should raise eyebrows – ultra-cheap tours may overcrowd groups or underpay porters.
Group sizes are typically capped at 16 or fewer. You’ll have a team of porters who carry tents, food, and cooking equipment (the heroes of the trail!), so you only need to carry a daypack with water, snacks, rain gear, and layers. Meals on the trail are surprisingly hearty – picture pancakes and omelets for breakfast, and even a celebratory cake on the last night baked in a camp stove.
Tips for the crew (porters, guide, cook) are extra, so budget some cash for that as a thank-you.
Physical Challenge and Altitude
The Inca Trail’s difficulty comes largely from the altitude and terrain. You start hiking around 2,700 m (8,860 ft) at Km 82 (Piscacucho) and reach 4,215 m at Dead Woman’s Pass. If you’re coming from sea level, acclimatization is crucial.
Spend at least 2–3 days in Cusco (3,400 m) or the Sacred Valley (2,800 m) before the trek to let your body adjust. In my case, I flew into Cusco and felt winded just climbing hostel stairs at first!
I took it easy, hydrated a lot, sipped coca tea (a local remedy for soroche, or altitude sickness), and by day three I could handle a short hike to nearby ruins without feeling awful. Consider doing light hikes or just leisurely explorations of Cusco’s sights while you acclimate.
Avoid alcohol the first days, eat light, and listen to your body. Some travelers also take Diamox (acetazolamide) as a preventative – consult your doctor if that’s something you want to have on hand. During the trek, go at a “pole pole” pace (slow and steady). Your guides will monitor everyone’s condition; good operators carry oxygen and first aid kits for emergencies.
I won’t lie, Dead Woman’s Pass is tough – I was breathing like a marathon runner – but it’s entirely doable with a positive mindset and proper preparation. And whenever I paused to catch my breath, I simply turned around: the sight of the valley floor and the trail we had conquered was immensely motivating.
Scenery and Culture
The Inca Trail is a kaleidoscope of environments. One moment you’re in high alpine tundra with sparse ichu grass and the next you’re descending into a cloud forest dripping with ferns and bromeliads. I encountered skittish llamas around our camps and saw orchids clinging to ruins.
Birdwatchers, keep your eyes peeled for the Andean cock-of-the-rock and hummingbirds flitting among the flowers. And there’s something profoundly spiritual about walking on stones laid by Inca engineers over 500 years ago – the trail itself is a cultural artifact.
Along the way, you explore Inca archaeological sites accessible only via this trek – places like Runkurakay (a circular ruins overlooking a valley) and Wiñay Wayna (terraces and temples on a steep hillside).
Our guide was fantastic in bringing these sites to life with stories of the Chasquis (Inca runners) and the rituals that might have taken place there. Even if you’re not a history buff, you can’t help but feel connected to the past as you touch the intricately fitted stones and gaze out at the same horizons the Incas once did.
The Final Reward – Machu Picchu: Arriving at Machu Picchu through the Sun Gate, Inti Punku, is a goosebump-inducing experience. Unlike day visitors who catch a bus up from the town below, Inca Trail trekkers enter at dawn from above the ruins. My group quietly watched as the first rays of sun illuminated the stone city, the peak of Huayna Picchu casting its familiar silhouette.
We snapped our triumphant photos, then descended into the site for a guided tour. The feeling of walking among the temples and terraces of Machu Picchu after earning it through this journey is beyond compare.
Keep in mind, your Inca Trail permit includes your Machu Picchu entrance for that day and typically a specific circuit through the ruins. Trekkers often have a train scheduled mid-afternoon to return to Cusco, so your time at Machu Picchu may be limited to a few hours. Still, it’s deeply satisfying. (If you want to climb Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountain after the trek, you must arrange it in advance – more on those permits soon.)
Finally, most tours include a train from Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo) back to Ollantaytambo, and a bus to Cusco. As I dozed off on the train, belly full of celebratory pizza from Aguas Calientes, I realized this journey was as unforgettable as the destination itself.
The Classic Inca Trail is perfect for those seeking a mix of challenge, history, and camaraderie. You’ll need to plan ahead and invest both time and money, but the payoff – walking through the Sun Gate into Machu Picchu – is the stuff of travel legends. Just remember: book early, break in those hiking boots, and embrace the adventure. Every step along this ancient trail is a story you’ll be telling for years.
The Salkantay Trek
If permits for the Inca Trail are gone, or if you’re craving a more off-the-beaten-path adventure, the Salkantay Trek is your ticket to Machu Picchu. Some say Salkantay is what the Inca Trail was 20 years ago – fewer crowds, more flexible, yet equally (if not more) stunning. Salkantay is a towering snow-capped mountain (6,271 m) in the Vilcabamba range, and this trek takes you right up close to it.
National Geographic even named the Salkantay Trek among the world’s 25 best treks, and I can see why. Over about 5 days and 72 km (45 miles), you hike from high Andean valleys, over a glacier pass, and all the way down into lush cloud forest on the Amazonian flank of Peru. It’s like trekking from winter to spring to summer in one trip.
What to Expect
The standard Salkantay trek is 5 days (4 nights), though there are also 4-day versions or extended combos. Unlike the Inca Trail, no special permit is required – you just need your Machu Picchu entry ticket for the end.
This means you can book Salkantay much more last-minute (even a day or two ahead in Cusco, though I recommend a bit more planning). You can also trek it independently if you have strong hiking skills and gear, but most people still go with a guide or tour package for ease and safety.
Tours often include a horse or mule to carry gear (nice perk!), and some have Sky Lodge cabins or tents for camping. The first part of the trek is remote – you won’t see villages like you do on Lares or as many ruins as the Inca Trail, but you will see Mother Nature at her grandest.
Itinerary Highlights
On Day 1, after a bumpy drive from Cusco into the mountains, the trek usually begins around Soraypampa (around 3,800 m). Many itineraries include an acclimatization hike to the Humantay Lake, a brilliant turquoise alpine lake cradled beneath a glacier.
I hiked up to Humantay Lake on a crisp afternoon, lungs burning in the thin air, and was rewarded with a mirror-like lake reflecting snowy peaks – absolutely enchanting (and very cold when a breeze kicks up!). That night, you sleep at the foot of Apu Salkantay, often in a tent or a basic lodge.
Day 2 is the crux: you ascend to the Salkantay Pass, about 4,630 m (15,190 ft). This climb is challenging – in my group, we encouraged each other step by step up a series of switchbacks locally nicknamed the “Gringo Killer” (don’t worry, only your thighs feel attacked).
Reaching the top, framed by prayer flags and piles of stones (apachetas) left by past hikers, we were greeted by an unreal sight: towering Salkantay to one side and, on the other, an expansive view of the Vilcabamba range with clouds swirling below.
It was as if we’d hiked into the sky. After celebrating with a hot cup of coca tea our guide brought (bless him), we began the long descent. By lunchtime, you’re usually down to around 3,000 m and notice the air getting warmer and the surroundings greener.
That night’s camp might be near Collpapampa or Chaullay (names vary), around 2,800 m – already a huge change from the morning’s frigid heights.
From Day 3 onward, the trek enters a cloud-forest/jungle environment. The trail winds through orchards of avocados, passion fruit, and coffee plants. We shed our jackets and hiked in t-shirts under the jungle canopy, with butterflies and tropical birds around.
Many itineraries include a stop at the Cocalmayo hot springs near Santa Teresa on day 3 (whether as part of Salkantay or as a side trip) – soaking in those warm pools after days of trekking is divine. I remember that as one of the best feelings of the whole trip: relaxing in steaming natural baths, surrounded by jungle night sounds and stars overhead.
Some groups spend Night 3 in Santa Teresa town or at a campsite nearby, where you can even opt for a short zip-line adventure if you’re not too tired (Salkantay packages sometimes offer this as an extra).
Day 4 often features a hike along the Llactapata trail: an uphill walk to the minor ruins of Llactapata (not the same Llactapata as Day 1) that interestingly give a distant view of Machu Picchu from across the valley. Imagine finally glimpsing your end goal – Machu Picchu’s terraces – from a secret perch miles away, like a sneak preview.
It gave me chills; it was the first time we saw Machu Picchu on the trek, and it built the anticipation even more. From Llactapata, you descend to the Hidroeléctrica station (a hydroelectric plant) around 1,800 m.
Here, you either catch a short train or continue walking along the train tracks (about 10 km) to reach Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Town) at about 2,040 m. Most of us were pretty exhausted by this point, but knowing a real bed and a celebratory Pisco sour awaited in town kept us moving!
That night (Day 4) is typically in a basic hotel in Aguas Calientes – civilization at last, with hot showers and maybe even wifi.
Day 5 is Machu Picchu! You’ll rise early and either take a 20-minute bus up to the ruins or hike up the steep stair shortcut (an hour-plus of stair-master challenge – after Salkantay, I shamelessly paid the $12 bus fare).
A guided tour of Machu Picchu lasts a couple of hours, and you’ll soak in the wonders of the site like anyone arriving by train. Many Salkantay trekkers schedule an afternoon or evening train back to Cusco this day.
I treated myself to a cold beer on the train, watching the jungle give way to highlands as we chugged along – a content finale to an epic trek.
Scenery & Climate
Salkantay is all about big nature. The trek’s signature is the Salkantay Pass and the towering Salkantay Mountain itself – you’ll get amazingly close to its glacier-clad slopes. When I traversed the pass, the weather went from sunny to light snow in minutes – in fact, “Salkantay” means “Savage Mountain” in Quechua, and it’s known for quickly changing conditions.
The descent brings you into humid cloud forests where waterfalls ribbon down cliffs and colorful wildflowers line the trail. I was struck by how few other groups we met until the last days; often it felt like we had the mountains to ourselves, aside from an occasional local campesino with a mule.
Wildlife isn’t abundant like on an Amazon trip, but we did spot vizcachas (rabbit-like rodents) on rocky sections and heard birds every morning. Culturally, Salkantay is less about Inca ruins (aside from Llactapata) and more about interacting with local people in remote hamlets – if you speak a little Spanish or Quechua, you can chat with the family that might host a lunch spot or sell snacks along the way.
The trail passes some farming settlements where you’ll see hardy Andean crops and maybe taste a freshly picked passion fruit offered by a local child entrepreneur (true story – best 5 soles I ever spent).
Difficulty & Altitude
Salkantay is often considered slightly harder physically than the Classic Inca Trail, mainly because Day 2’s pass is higher (4650 m vs 4215 m) and the overall distance is longer. However, it doesn’t have as many endless stone stairs, which some people find easier on the knees.
There’s also an option to rent a horse for portions of the trek (especially for the climb to the pass) if you really need it – several people in our group did this for a modest fee, which helped them immensely. Acclimatization is equally important; you start high on Salkantay, so spend time in Cusco beforehand just as you would for the Inca Trail.
Altitude sickness can hit here too. The good news is after the pass, you descend to much lower altitudes quickly, so the second half of the trek you’re gaining oxygen with every step. Weather-wise, be prepared for cold (below freezing at night at Soraypampa), possible snow or sleet on the pass, and then warm, even hot days in the jungle section.
Layering is key – I’d start a morning in a down jacket and wool hat, and by lunch be in a T-shirt and sun hat. Also, rain can occur year-round in the cloud forest, and the trail can get muddy. Good boots and gaiters saved me from a few slips in the muck on Day 3.
Permits & Logistics
As mentioned, no special trekking permit is needed for Salkantay, which gives flexibility. You will need to buy a Machu Picchu entrance ticket for the final day (your tour operator usually arranges this with you when booking).
Machu Picchu tickets have timed entry slots and limited daily capacity (more on that later), so it’s wise to book the trek at least a couple weeks out to ensure your preferred Machu Picchu day isn’t sold out. There is also a small entry fee for the Salkantay trail area – about 20 soles (around $6) for foreigners, paid to the local community or municipality.
Our guide collected this from us on Day 1 to handle the ticket at the trailhead. Cost: Salkantay can be significantly cheaper than the Inca Trail. Group tour prices range widely from about $250 up to $600 per person depending on service level.
On the lower end, you may have larger groups, basic food, and return by bus instead of train. On the higher end (with reputable outfitters like Alpaca, REI, etc.), $500–$700 might get you smaller groups, better meals, perhaps unique accommodations (some have domes or lodges instead of tents for certain nights).
My group paid roughly $400 each, which included the train back (a big factor in cost). Watch what’s included: does the price include the train from Aguas Calientes to Cusco? The bus up to Machu Picchu? Sleeping bag and trekking pole rental? These can add to your budget if not included. Tipping the guide and cook/horsemen at the end is customary (we pooled around $15 each for the crew).
Why Choose Salkantay?
If you want grand mountain vistas and a sense of solitude, Salkantay delivers. It’s ideal if you couldn’t secure an Inca Trail permit or if you prefer a trek that is bookable on shorter notice. Also, for those interested in a bit of comfort, note that Salkantay has some glamping options – I’ve seen treks advertising sky lodge pods or more permanent camps with beds.
You can make this trek as rugged or as cushy as you want. On the flip side, if camping isn’t your thing at all, you might still consider the train or the Inca Jungle trek (which uses hostels).
But for many, Salkantay hits the sweet spot: challenging but not overrun, culturally light but heavy on nature’s wow-factor. Personally, standing at Salkantay Pass, feeling like a tiny speck among those colossal peaks, and then later emerging at Machu Picchu via the “back door” route, gave me a profound appreciation for Peru’s diverse landscapes.
As I walked into Machu Picchu on that final day, it struck me that I had literally crossed from one side of the Andes to the other on foot – an experience of traversing worlds in just a few days.
The Lares Trek
Imagine trekking through emerald valleys where alpacas graze and children in traditional clothes wave hello, ending your day soaking in natural hot springs under the stars. That’s the vibe of the Lares Trek, often called the “Weaver’s Way” for the vibrant Quechua communities you encounter.
The Lares trek is all about the living culture of the Andes, combined with gorgeous mountain scenery. It doesn’t end at Machu Picchu’s doorstep (you’ll take a train to get there at the end), but it offers an intimate look at highland life that the other treks don’t quite match.
Overview: The classic Lares route is a 3-day trek (plus a 4th day at Machu Picchu), though multiple variations exist. It’s relatively flexible – you can start from different villages in the Lares Valley and finish at different exit points in the Sacred Valley.
Most Lares treks include a final night in Aguas Calientes and a Machu Picchu visit on the last day, similar to Salkantay. The trek is usually supported by pack animals (llamas or horses) and involves camping unless you arrange homestays (which some do).
Total distance is around 33–40 km depending on the route (roughly 20–25 miles), and you’ll cross at least one high pass about 4,200–4,600 m (similar elevation to the Inca Trail’s pass, sometimes a bit higher).
Itinerary and Highlights
A common itinerary begins with a drive from Cusco to the village of Lares, famous for its hot springs. In fact, many treks start with a relaxing dip in the Lares thermal baths – not a bad way to kick off a hike! I recall sitting in those steaming pools alongside local families, gazing at the mountains, and thinking, “If only every trek began like this.”
Post-soak, you’ll hit the trail in the afternoon of Day 1, making a moderate hike to your first campsite (perhaps near a village like Cuncani or Huacawasi at ~3,800 m). Along the way, you pass fields of potatoes and quinoa, and you might visit a small school or a farmer’s home.
Our guide introduced us to a family of weavers, where we saw vibrant textiles being handwoven from alpaca wool. They offered us muña (Andean mint) tea and demonstrated how they dye yarn with natural plants – a wonderfully personal cultural exchange.
Day 2 on Lares typically involves the highest pass. For example, from Huacawasi you’d climb up to Abra Huacawasi (~4,300 m). The ascent is tough but scenic – think sapphire-blue glacial lakes and herds of alpacas dotting the slopes. I found the Lares trail noticeably quieter than even Salkantay; apart from our group and our horsemen, we only encountered a couple of locals carrying goods.
At the pass, you’re greeted by spectacular views of the surrounding ranges (often including snow-capped peaks like Mount Veronica (Waqaywillka) in the distance). Some treks go even higher on alternate routes (like the Ipsaycocha Pass at ~4,500 m on one Lares variant). After conquering the high point, you descend into the next valley.
The downhill can be steep, but by lunchtime you might be by a tranquil lake (maybe Auroray Cocha, if following the route in our trek), refueling on a picnic lunch while chinchillas scurry among the rocks. By late afternoon, you often reach a lower village such as Patacancha or Yanahuara, around 3,000 m, where many groups camp near a community.
Our second night was near a village where we had a pachamanca feast – a traditional meal where meat and vegetables are cooked in the earth under hot stones. Sharing that meal with locals, under the Milky Way, was a highlight of the trip. The total hiking time on Day 2 can be long (8–10 hours including breaks), but it’s the core of the trek.
Day 3 on Lares is usually a shorter hike out to the road or directly to the train. Depending on the route, you might trek a few hours in the morning to reach the Sacred Valley. Some routes end near Ollantaytambo, which is perfect because from Ollantaytambo you can catch the train to Aguas Calientes.
In our case, we hiked down to a road where a van picked us up and drove us to Ollantaytambo. We had lunch in this beautiful Inca town (some itineraries include a tour of the Ollantaytambo ruins if time permits, which I highly recommend if you haven’t seen them – they are an astonishing Inca fortress and village).
By late afternoon of Day 3, we boarded the train to Aguas Calientes. That train ride, though just ~1.5 hours, was such a stark change – suddenly tourism hustle and comforts reappear. It felt almost jarring to transition from sleeping in tents and talking with villagers to a train with vendors selling snacks. We spent Night 3 in a simple hotel in Aguas Calientes.
Day 4 is Machu Picchu day, just like other treks’ finales. Usually, your guide from the trek stays with you and gives the Machu Picchu tour. One advantage: after three days in relative wilderness, Machu Picchu almost feels extra impressive as a capstone.
Also, because Lares isn’t as strenuous as the Inca Trail or Salkantay, I personally had a bit more energy left to explore Machu Picchu’s nooks and crannies. Some group members even opted to hike Huayna Picchu that day, since we had pre-booked permits (if you want to climb Huayna or Machu Picchu Mountain, you arrange it when booking your Machu Picchu ticket – we coordinated with our tour company in advance to add that on).
Climbing Huayna Picchu after the relatively gentler Lares Trek was challenging but feasible for them, and they raved about the views.
Culture & Scenery
The Lares region is known for its weaving and highland farms. You will see (and have the chance to support by purchasing) beautiful woven goods – think ponchos, textiles, and chullos (hats) with naturally dyed colors.
The people in these villages often still dress in traditional attire as everyday wear, not for tourists – the women in layered skirts and colorful mantas, the men in ponchos and sandals made from recycled tires.
One of my fondest memories is playing an impromptu soccer match with some Quechua kids at 3,700 m – we were gasping for air while they ran circles around us, giggling. It’s interactions like these that make Lares special.
The scenery on Lares Trek is a mix of high passes with big views and pretty valleys with streams and thatch-roof hamlets. It might not have a single jaw-dropping marquee sight like Salkantay’s huge peak, but it’s consistently lovely and feels very authentic.
Each night, we camped near a village, which meant we often had curious local children peeking at our strange camp gear, or villagers selling some home-brewed chicha (fermented corn drink) or handmade snacks. We learned as much about modern Andean life as we did about Inca history on this trek. And yes, there are also hot springs!
Many itineraries end with (or start with) hot springs – Lares hot springs at the beginning, and there’s also thermal baths in Aguas Calientes if you want a soak after Machu Picchu.
Difficulty: I would rate Lares as moderate to challenging mostly due to the high altitude, but the daily distances are slightly shorter than some other treks (often 10–15 km per day) and you usually only have one very high pass. If you handle altitude well and are reasonably fit, Lares is quite manageable.
I noticed the pace on Lares was a bit more relaxed – we took long lunch breaks and had plenty of time to interact with locals or take photos. Our group was alone at our campsites (no big crowds), which also made it feel less pressured.
Still, you’re camping above 3,500 m for two nights, so it gets cold at night (bring a warm sleeping bag, at least -10°C/14°F comfort). And afternoon storms can blow in fast in the mountains – we got hailed on briefly going over the pass, then it cleared to sunshine.
Permits & Booking
Like Salkantay, no special permit is needed for the trail itself, only your Machu Picchu ticket. This means Lares trek can be arranged on shorter notice and via many agencies. The lack of a permit system also means if you wanted, you could trek without a guide.
But because Lares is more about cultural experience, going with a guide who can translate and introduce you to locals enriches it greatly. Group tour costs are in the same ballpark as Salkantay or maybe slightly less: expect around $400–$600 including Machu Picchu and train.
Some cheaper options exist, especially if you have your own group and hire a freelance guide and horsemen directly in Cusco – but if you go bargain basement, ensure they are providing proper gear and treating the local communities well. The money from these treks often does help the villages (some companies include donations or use local family-run campsites).
Also, note that weather can affect routes; occasionally heavy rain might make a path impassable, so guides sometimes adjust the plan on the fly (which is easier on Lares since multiple routes exist).
Why Choose Lares? Pick Lares if you value cultural immersion and don’t mind that you won’t literally hike into Machu Picchu (you’ll take the train for the last bit). It’s a great trek for travelers who want a less crowded, community-focused experience. It’s also somewhat flexible in difficulty – for example, if someone in your party struggles, you could potentially rearrange pickup points or even do only part of the trek and then drive to the train.
The presence of villages means you’re never too far from help or an exit if needed. Families sometimes choose Lares for that reason (I’ve seen kids on this trek, and they love the animals and interactions). When I finished the Lares Trek, I felt like I not only saw stunning mountains, but I met the Andes – through its people.
The smiles, the shared coca leaves, the way our horseman sang softly to his animals as we walked – these human elements stand out alongside the natural beauty. So if Machu Picchu is your goal but you want the journey to teach you about Andean culture today, Lares is an unbeatable choice.
Machu Picchu by Train and Bus
Not everyone dreams of trekking for days on end – and that’s totally okay. Machu Picchu is not only accessible to hikers. In fact, the majority of visitors reach it by a combination of trains and buses, in considerably more comfort.
I’ve done it this way too, and it’s a fantastic option if you’re short on time, traveling with young children, or simply not keen on long hikes but still want to witness the magic of Machu Picchu.
The Classic Train Route
The typical journey starts in Cusco or the Sacred Valley and ends in Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo), the small town at the base of Machu Picchu. From Cusco, you first travel to a train station – either Poroy (a 25-minute drive outside Cusco) or more commonly Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley (about 1.5–2 hours by road from Cusco).
Many people combine this with seeing the Sacred Valley sites, which helps with acclimatization too. Ollantaytambo is a charming historical town, and from there you catch the train. Two main companies, PeruRail and Inca Rail, operate trains with various levels of service.
The train ride from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes takes about 1.5 hours, winding along the Urubamba River into increasingly dense cloud forest. This train journey is a highlight in itself: the cars have big panoramic windows (some even with skylights) so you can admire the dramatic canyon, verdant hills, and the occasional Inca ruin flitting by.
I felt a thrill realizing the tracks were tracing the route of the ancient Inca road (though at river level instead of up on the cliffs). If you started in Poroy (Cusco), the train ride is longer (~3.5 hours) since it covers more distance, and those trains usually have first-class style service with meals.
In Aguas Calientes, no cars are present – it’s all on foot. The town is a bit touristy, packed with restaurants, hotels, and markets, but its setting is gorgeous, hemmed in by steep green mountains with the river rushing through. Most visitors spend at least one night here, before or after visiting Machu Picchu, to allow for an early start at the site.
I recommend overnighting because it enables you to go up to Machu Picchu at the crack of dawn for sunrise (if you wish) and not worry about same-day train schedules. There are accommodations ranging from backpacker hostels to luxury hotels right at Machu Picchu’s gate (looking at you, Belmond Sanctuary Lodge – very pricey but unbeatable location).
The Final Ascent
From Aguas Calientes up to Machu Picchu itself, you have two choices: take the shuttle bus or hike up. The shuttle buses are run by a regulated concession and they queue up from early morning. It’s a 25-30 minute bus ride, zigzagging up a switchback road (sometimes called the Hiram Bingham road).
In 2025, a round-trip bus ticket costs about $24 USD (approximately $12 each way). You buy the ticket in Aguas Calientes (bring your passport and cash or card). During peak hours, expect lines – many people catch the first buses around 5:30am to be at Machu Picchu by 6am opening.
The bus ride is scenic but hold on – it’s a winding dirt road with no guardrails in spots, which can feel like a mini adventure itself as you peer down at the valley floor!
Alternatively, the hike up from town takes about 1 to 1.5 hours, climbing roughly 1,700 steps (around 400 m / 1,300 ft of elevation gain). It’s a steep slog, but some fit travelers do it to save money or enjoy a pre-dawn workout.
I’ve done the hike – starting at 4:30am with a headlamp – and arrived drenched in sweat but proud, just in time to see the sunrise colors. If you hike up, you’ll merge into the line of people entering Machu Picchu at the top, so either way you converge at the main gate.
Inside Machu Picchu – Current Regulations: Machu Picchu itself now operates under a timed entry and circuit system. When purchasing your ticket, you select an entry time slot (hourly windows in the morning or early afternoon) and a specific circuit which dictates the route you’ll walk through the ruins.
There are designated short routes and long routes, and separate ones if you are climbing Machu Picchu or Huayna Picchu. Essentially, this is done to control crowds and preserve the site. As of 2025, for example, Circuit 1 is upper terraces, Circuit 2 is the classic route through the core of the city, Circuit 3 is lower terraces, etc., with some only available if you have the mountain hikes.
On my recent visit, I was guided along a one-way path and was not allowed to backtrack to, say, re-enter the Guardhouse once I passed it. Keep this in mind: you can’t roam freely and revisit sections – it’s a one-direction tour now.
Also, officially a guide is required for a first-time visitor, although enforcement is variable. I noticed most people were indeed with guides, and honestly, having a guide is worthwhile to appreciate the rich history.
Many tour agencies sell convenient packages including train, bus, entry, and guide. If doing it on your own, you must remember to book your Machu Picchu entry ticket in advance, especially in high season.
The government has an official website (which can be a bit clunky) for tickets, or you can buy in Cusco at the Ministry of Culture office, or through any travel agent.
Only a limited number of people are allowed per day – around 5,600 visitors currently (this number has changed over time; it used to be about 2,500 but was raised with multiple shifts). Tickets are date-specific and non-transferable (your name and passport will be printed).
Huayna Picchu and Machu Picchu Mountain
These are the two iconic optional hikes within the site. Huayna Picchu is the steep, sharp peak seen in the classic photos (elevation ~2,720 m). Machu Picchu Mountain (Montaña) is a higher mountain on the opposite side (elevation ~3,082 m). Both require separate permits that include a specific entry time.
Huayna Picchu is extremely popular and only about 350 people are allowed up per day in several small groups. These slots sell out months in advance for peak season. Huayna Picchu permits come in two batches (7-8am entry or 10-11am entry typically).
Machu Picchu Mountain has a larger capacity (around 400 per day) and two entry times (usually 7-8am and 9-10am). If you want to do one of these, be sure to purchase the correct combined ticket (“Machu Picchu + Huayna” or “Machu Picchu + Montaña”) when you book.
They cost extra – roughly 200 soles (about $60) for the Machu Picchu + Huayna Picchu ticket for foreign adults, slightly less for Machu Picchu + Montaña. I’ve climbed Huayna Picchu on a past trip: it’s a short but very steep and thrilling climb (with some exposure; there are cables to hold on to at dicey parts).
The view from the top, overlooking Machu Picchu like a condor, is spectacular and gives context to how isolated the site is, but it’s not for those with severe fear of heights. Machu Picchu Mountain is a longer, less steep climb, and from its summit you get a bird’s-eye view of Machu Picchu and all the surrounding peaks – truly panoramic.
Both hikes take about 2 hours up and down. If coming by train, you’ll likely have to choose between exploring the ruins more or doing a mountain hike due to time – many people who trek (like via Inca Trail) skip these as they’re tired or the permits are gone. But if you have an extra day, they are fantastic add-ons.
Altitude and Acclimatization for Train Visitors
One might think if you’re just taking a train you can avoid altitude issues, but note: Cusco (where you’ll likely spend time) is at 3,400 m – higher than Machu Picchu itself (2,400 m).
So train travelers often do a smart thing: go down to the Sacred Valley (Ollantaytambo, Urubamba which are ~2,800 m) first, maybe spend a night or two, then go to Machu Picchu, and do Cusco at the end of their trip.
This way you ascend gradually and reduce soroche symptoms. I’ve met travelers who flew into Cusco and immediately went down to the Valley and felt fine, then after Machu Picchu came back to Cusco a bit acclimatized.
If you only do a day trip, you might not overnight in Cusco at all (some tour companies arrange pickup from Cusco hotel at 4am, drive to train, do Machu Picchu, back by late night). That’s rushed but possible.
Costs: Doing Machu Picchu by train is comfortable but can be pricey. The train tickets themselves can range from about $60 one-way in a basic tourist class to several hundred dollars for luxury services like the Hiram Bingham train (which is like a rolling 5-star hotel with gourmet meals and live music).
A common choice is PeruRail’s Vistadome train, roughly $75–$100 each way. Inca Rail has similar pricing. So expect to spend $120–$200 per person on trains round-trip. The bus Aguas Calientes–Machu Picchu is $24 round-trip as mentioned.
The Machu Picchu entry for a standard circuit is about 152 soles (≈ $40-45) for foreign adults. If you add Huayna Picchu, it’s ~200 soles total. Hiring a guide at the site might be ~$15-20 per person if you join a small group at the gate, or $50+ for a private tour.
In total, an independent 2-day trip might run around $300 per person including mid-range train, entry, bus, guide, and a basic hostel. Package tours from Cusco might be $320–$400 for a 2-day or $280–$350 for a 1-day including all transport and guides.
The “Backdoor” via Hydroelectric: I’d be remiss not to mention the ultra-budget way some backpackers do it: taking a long, bumpy bus ride to the Hydroelectric station (hidroeléctrica) and then walking 3 hours along the train tracks to Aguas Calientes, thus avoiding the expensive train.
This is sometimes combined with the tail end of a Salkantay trek or done independently. It saves money but adds a lot of travel time (the dirt road through Santa María to Santa Teresa is rough – I experienced it returning from Salkantay by van and it was 6+ hours of dusty twists and turns to Cusco).
If you’re on a tight budget climbing Machu Picchu and have more time than money, it’s an option (~$20 van ride vs $80 train). But most short-term travelers opt for the train for its ease and scenery.
In summary, the train and bus route is the smooth path to Machu Picchu’s gates, turning what is for some an arduous pilgrimage into a scenic journey that you can do in a day. Just be sure to secure those entry tickets, plan around the new regulations, and prepare to be amazed as the Lost City unveils itself from the mountaintop.
Permits, Tickets, and Tips
By now, you’ve heard about permits and regulations cropping up with each route. Let’s demystify the key things you need to arrange ahead of time so your Machu Picchu adventure – whether by foot or rail – goes smoothly:
Inca Trail Permits
As stressed before, the Classic 4-Day Inca Trail requires a government-issued permit for a specific start date.
These are limited to 500 per day (including guides and porters) and can sell out 6+ months early for peak season. You must book through a licensed tour operator who secures this permit for you; you cannot buy it yourself separately.
When you book, give exact passport details and carry that passport on the hike – they will check permits against your ID at the trailhead. February closure: Remember the trail is closed in February, so no permits exist for that month.
If you can’t get a permit, consider the Short Inca Trail (2-day) which has 250 permits/day and occasionally has more availability, or opt for alternate treks.
Machu Picchu Entry Tickets
All visitors need a timed entry ticket for Machu Picchu itself. These are organized by circuits now (Circuit 1, 2, 3) and have set entry hours. There are roughly morning slots (6-12) and afternoon slots (12-4) with varying last entry times.
The site officially allows a maximum stay of about 4 hours (and no re-entry once you leave). For example, a “9am entry, Circuit 2” ticket means you enter at 9 and follow Circuit 2 through the ruins.
If you’re trekking the Inca Trail, your entry is included for the final day and you typically get a special circuit that allows you to see the upper and lower parts (recent rules grant Inca Trail hikers access via Circuit 1 and 3).
For all others, book on the official website or via agent as soon as your plans are firm – tickets can sell out, especially for popular dates like weekends May-August.
There are daily limits, which have been around 3,000 to 4,000 tourists spread through the day (the number has changed a bit with COVID measures and then eased limits).
As of high season 2025, it’s advised to buy at least a week or two ahead (more if adding a mountain). Tickets cost 152 soles for a foreign adult (discounts for students with ID, and much cheaper for Peruvians).
Huayna Picchu / Machu Picchu Mountain Permits
These are add-ons to your Machu Picchu ticket. When you go to purchase on the official system, you select “Machu Picchu + Huayna Picchu” or “Machu Picchu + Montaña” and a time.
Only a few hundred spots per day for each: Huayna Picchu ~350 (split into two entry times), Montaña Machu Picchu 400 (split into two groups). These cost extra (for foreigners about $15-20 above the regular ticket – e.g., total 200 soles as noted). If you’re doing a trek like Salkantay or Lares, ask your operator to secure these when booking Machu Picchu tickets.
If doing the Inca Trail, notify your operator very early if you want Huayna or Montaña; they will try to get that combined with your permit, but availability might be tough.
Honestly, many Inca Trailers skip the extra hike because they get plenty of hiking already. But I’ve met some who did Huayna Picchu after the 4-day trail – they were tired but elated (and probably slept for 14 hours on return to Cusco!).
Remember the timing: Huayna Picchu won’t be feasible if you have an afternoon train to catch and your slot is late, etc. Plan such that you have enough time (each hike takes around 2 hours round-trip plus time at the top).
And don’t forget to bring your passport the day of the hike – they’ll check it against the permit list at the trailhead of Huayna/Montaña.
Give yourself buffer days if you can. Transport strikes or weather can sometimes disrupt plans in the Andes.
Try not to book your flight out of Cusco the same night you’re coming back from Machu Picchu, just in case (I’ve seen people stress because a train was delayed and they had a flight in 3 hours – too close for comfort).
The Journey and the Destination
My journeys along these routes, each so different, taught me that Machu Picchu is more than a destination; it’s the culmination of experiences.
Each route has its own story:
The Classic Inca Trail is for the romantics and history lovers craving that classic pilgrimage.
Salkantay is for the adventurers seeking nature’s grandeur.
Lares is for the culturally curious, wanting human connections in their hike.
The train is for those who value comfort or are short on time, yet still yearn to stand in the presence of the past.
In the end, whichever route you take, you’ll join the ranks of those forever touched by the allure of Machu Picchu. As I stepped through its stone gateways and as I left, I knew I’d carry a piece of it with me. And I suspect you will too – in sun or rain, in sweat or comfort, you’ll understand why this place ensnares the heart. Buen viaje, and enjoy every step of your Machu Picchu adventure!