When Russia launched its full-scale invasion of Ukraine in February 2022, international travel to the country almost came to a standstill: Ukrainian airspace was closed, many countries evacuated their citizens, and governments began advising against travel to Ukraine. Four years later, many of these warnings remain in place — for example, the UK advises against travel to most regions and recommends only essential travel to parts of western Ukraine.
Yet foreigners continue to enter the country. In 2025, 2.57 million foreign nationals crossed into Ukraine, around 60% of the pre-war level. Ukraine received 2.57 million foreign visitors in 2025 So what is it actually like to travel to Ukraine during the war — and how dangerous is it in practice?
What Foreign Visitors Say About Their Experience
John Hale: a functioning Kyiv
American traveller John Hale visited Ukraine in 2025, travelling from Slovakia to Lviv and then Kyiv, where he took part in a half-marathon. He expected to see a capital heavily affected by the war but was surprised by how much ordinary life continued.
«It is a busy, lively, functioning capital.»
He saw crowded metro stations, shops, markets and people spending time outdoors. The contrast became especially clear during the marathon: an air-raid alert interrupted the race, but after it ended, the participants continued.
Jan Medved: ordinary life behind the headlines
Slovenian traveller Jan Medved visited Kyiv and Lviv in 2026. He came specifically to see how civilians were living during the war rather than relying only on international news.
«I just wanted to see what everyday life was like for civilians.»
In Kyiv and Lviv, he found functioning cities and people continuing their routines. But visits to Bucha and Irpin changed the emotional side of his trip. The contrast between ordinary urban life and places directly affected by the occupation made it clear that this was not a conventional European city break.
Valentin Remsing: when the war becomes impossible to ignore
Austrian traveller Valentin Remsing visited Kyiv and Kharkiv in 2026. His experience was much more intense. In Kharkiv, he heard explosions, while during his return journey a train was evacuated because of a drone threat.
His reaction was not to describe the experience as an adventure, but to focus on the people who live with this reality every day:
«It makes me so sorry for the Ukrainians.»
Mark from the UK: a journey across the country
British traveller Mark spent 11 days travelling through Ukraine in 2025, visiting Lviv, Kyiv, Odesa, Mykolaiv and areas affected by the occupation. One of his biggest surprises was the railway system:
«I thought the trains were amazing, for a country operating within a war they were clean and efficient and ran perfectly on time.»
But he also noticed a clear regional difference. The farther south he travelled, the more directly he experienced the consequences of the war:
«They all brought the experience of the war to life far more than Lviv and Kyiv.»
These experiences illustrate the most important thing for a potential visitor to understand: Ukraine does not feel the same everywhere.
Where Can Foreign Visitors Go in Ukraine?
For travel planning, it makes sense to divide Ukraine roughly into central and western destinations.
Kyiv and central Ukraine offer the most direct experience of the country’s wartime capital. Kyiv has functioning hotels, restaurants, museums, shops and public transport, but it remains a target for missile and drone attacks. Visitors need to monitor air-raid alerts, know where shelters are and follow local restrictions, including curfew rules.
Western Ukraine generally offers a calmer environment. Lviv is the country’s main western cultural destination, while the Carpathians and Zakarpattia are popular for mountains, hiking, resorts and wellness. The UK currently classifies Lviv, Zakarpattia, Ivano-Frankivsk, Ternopil and Chernivtsi as areas where it advises against all but essential travel — a lower level of warning than for most other regions, but not an indication that these places are risk-free.
Regions closer to the frontline are a different matter. Areas such as Kharkiv, Sumy, Donetsk, Zaporizhzhia, Kherson and parts of Dnipropetrovsk region are exposed to a much higher level of risk and should not be treated as regular tourist destinations. Travel to some areas may also be restricted by local authorities. Foreign visitors who need to enter high-risk areas for humanitarian, volunteering, media or other essential purposes should coordinate their plans with the relevant local authorities and organisations in advance and follow local security requirements. For a conventional tourist trip, these regions should be avoided.
How to Get Around Ukraine
Travelling between cities
Train. For getting around Ukraine, trains are the most common option for travelling between major cities. They offer relatively comfortable and affordable connections between Kyiv, Lviv, Odesa and other destinations. For popular tourist routes, it is better to book tickets in advance, as the best connections can sell out quickly after tickets go on sale.
Bus. Buses are another option. They are usually less comfortable than trains but can be cheaper. They are especially useful when train tickets are sold out or when there is no direct railway connection to your destination.
BlaBlaCar. Another possibility is BlaBlaCar, a ride-sharing service that connects drivers travelling between cities with passengers looking for a ride in the same direction. A driver can offer available seats in their car, and passengers can find and book a suitable trip through the platform.
Taxi. Taking a taxi between cities is also possible, but for longer distances it can be considerably more expensive than a train or bus.
Car rental. A rental car is another convenient option, especially if you want to visit several places rather than follow a fixed timetable. Some rental companies, like Car-Rent.ua offer one-way rentals, meaning you can pick up a car in one city and return it in another instead of driving back.
Getting around Kyiv
Metro and public transport. For moving around Kyiv, the metro is usually the most convenient option, especially during busy hours. The city also has an extensive network of buses, trams and trolleybuses. Visitors can pay using a Kyiv Digital transport card or QR ticket. Since August 2026, a transfer QR ticket has also allowed unlimited transfers between different types of public transport for 90 minutes after the first validation.
Marshrutkas. Private minibuses can be useful for routes that are not directly covered by the metro, including getting from a metro station to more distant parts of the city and suburbs.
City train. The Kyiv City Express connects different parts of the city and can be useful for some longer journeys, although it is less commonly used by citizens and tourists.
Taxi. Bolt and Uklon are among the most popular taxi services in Kyiv, while Uber is also available. Cars are generally easy to find, and prices are relatively affordable compared with many European capitals.
Car rental. For a short stay focused on central Kyiv, public transport and taxis are usually enough. A rental car becomes more useful if you plan to travel frequently across the city, visit the Kyiv region or continue your journey to other parts of Ukraine. In this case, having your own car can save time and avoid multiple transfers. Among Ukrainian car rental companies, foreign visitors can consider Car-Rent.ua, 7Cars and BLS. Prices are relatively affordable: for example, Car-Rent.ua offers cars from around $20 per day for longer rentals, with higher rates for shorter periods. The company has pickup points in Kyiv, Lviv and other cities and can also deliver a car to a customer’s address, including a railway station or hotel. One-way returns are available as well.
What Should Foreign Visitors Keep in Mind?
Ukraine in 2026 is not a conventional tourist destination. Before travelling, check your government’s current travel advice and insurance conditions. Once in the country, monitor air-raid alerts, know where the nearest shelter is, respect curfews and follow instructions from local authorities. Most importantly, do not interpret “western Ukraine is calmer” as “western Ukraine is completely safe.” Missile and drone attacks can occur across the country.
But the experiences of foreign visitors also show another side of Ukraine: people continue to work, travel, eat in restaurants, attend events and welcome visitors while adapting to the reality of war.
For someone who decides to come, the most sensible approach is to choose the route carefully, understand the risks and leave enough flexibility for plans to change. Ukraine may not offer a carefree holiday in 2026. But for travellers who understand the situation, it can still be a place where a normal travel experience — from a Kyiv café to a Carpathian mountain road — exists alongside an extraordinary wartime reality.